C-flux is an acid based product, so clean thoroughly. From the MSDS: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- INGREDIENT: Zinc Chloride PERCENTAGE BY WEIGHT: <20 CAS#: 7646-85-7 EC#: 231-592-0 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- INGREDIENT: Ammonium Chloride PERCENTAGE BY WEIGHT: <1 CAS#: 12125-02-9 EC#: 235-186-4 And other, including tin and antimony. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Missouri Guy" <n0tt1@...> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 11:57:25 AM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] No HASL > FYI...there is some flux that already has solder particles > in it. The brand I have in my plumbing supplies is called > "C-Flux", made in the USA by "Rectorseal" of Houston, TX. > http://www.rectorseal.com/C-Flux.php Note that there > are links to the datasheet. > > I purchased a 3-oz jar at a surplus store for 59-cents. Amazon > has it for over $5!! > > The product "cleans and tins" in one operation and is lead-free. > I'm pretty sure there are other brands out there that are > virutally the same thing. One nice thing about this product > is that it seems to keep "forever". Just add a little water > and mix if it starts to dry out. > > BTW, the flux in a lot of plumbing products contains forms > of Chloride, an acid. Be sure to clean ALL of that off the board > to avoid corrosion problems later on. It is water soluble. > > Having said that, I just wonder if this C-Flux stuff could be used > for SMDs? I.E., in place of the expensive paste that has a shelf > life. Has anyone ever tried it? > > Per the datasheet, avoid breathing in any of the fumes. > > Charlie > > On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 07:25:51 -0700 "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> > writes: > > ST, > > I failed to mention that I am using plumber's solder paste and paint > the > board using an old tooth brush. I tried reflowing the paste with my > hot > air > gun but it didn't seem to matter. The brush put it on thin enough. > > The SMD paste contains tiny specs of solder so it is not the same as > plumber's paste. It would be cool if there was a way to take 1/8" > diameter > solder and grind it up into tiny particles. Then it could be mixed > with > plumber's paste and used to coat the board. Heat the board in a > toaster > oven > and it would be coated. Then wash to remove excess flux. > > Rick > > -----Original Message----- > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of Stefan Trethan > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 7:01 AM > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] No HASL > > You can use plumbing solder paste (with flux) and paint the board with > it., > then you heat the board with hot air or a hotplate.. > The paste can be thinned with water to make it easier to apply, and it > is > much cheaper than SMD paste. > Excess paste in bare areas and flux just washes off with hot water. > > There will be lumps if you apply too much or unevenly, in that case > carefully wipe it off with a paper towel wad while molten. > > ST > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and > Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and > Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] No HASL
2013-01-12 by Donald H Locker
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