The resist is interesting indeed. It develops in 5 seconds with a 1000w light. It does use the same 1% solution of sodium carbonate for developing as other resist brands. They instruct exposing and then developing as normal. They say then to expose it again to harden it further. I never thought of the extra hardening step. I will use it. The instructions say to use a spray bottle or lawn pump sprayer to apply the developer saying it will strip unexposed resist easier without abrading exposed resist. If a spray bottle can be used for applying developer, could it work etching? Has anyone ever tried it? Jeff _____ From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of smilingcat90254 Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 8:13 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] photo resist. Slightly different material. Some of you have complained that the resist lifts off or gets damaged during handling. laying of the transparent image, static electricity causing the resist to lift off with the image, vacuum bagging causing more surface scratch and so on. and the use of chemicals. I just recently ordered a material called puretch from only US distributor. claims that the film is good down to 1 mil resolution provided your image is that good. links to the US distributor: www.capefearpress.com/puretch.html youtube videos on the product: www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkGt9nFER1s another link: http://www.polymetaal.nl/siteUK/shopukwork/en-gb/dept_183.html Developer used is sodium carbonate (do not get it confused with sodium bicarbonate which is baking soda) capefear press has some good information on how to expose without creating shadows and the lamp recommended. Good solid information. Application at capefearpress is not electronics but rather arcane art form. Far more technical than most of us here or using toner transfer method. Some advantages: photoresist is protected from handling by a thin plastic layer. It is removed when you are ready to develop so that you can't scratch or lift off during handling and exposing. For photoimaging, they also sell stoufer exposure gauge to help you get the right exposure. ------------ For now I think I have Pulsar toner transfer system working well enough. Don't need to use lot of pressure. Too much pressure causes the toner to "bleed" on the edges. temperature to melt toner is around 100C anything more and the toner becomes too thin and the image "bleeds"/run. I may still switch over to puretch. Don't need to keep printing images for multiple board. higher resolution for use with TQFP with 0.5mm pitch. Pulsar is near the limit for 0.5mm pitch. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] photo resist. Slightly different material.
2013-01-09 by Jeff Heiss
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