Homebrew PCBs

Ok so it is strangely silent on this topic. So I will let you know 
what I am doing. I purchased a laminator from a place in Chicago 
called big lots. A store that buys discontinued things and sells for 
a reduced rate, I paid 29.95 US. The specs said that the maximum 
temperature is 100 degrees Celsius. So I tried the process on a 
copper clad board with zero results. Discouraged I left it and tried 
the iron method. I cannot get the results that many have experienced. 
The traces are fat and jagged, there are voids etc…
So when the thread on the laminator unfolded I was prepared to buy 
one at Staples if someone had proven that it worked. As usual no one 
has just a lot of speculation research, which to me is useless unless 
results can be verified. So I proceeded to take the laminator apart, 
which I had purchased. It has bimetal thermostat connected to a one 
shot that tells you when it has reached operating temp. I placed a 
switch to short out the thermostat and let it warm up 10 minutes and 
tried a board with glossy paper (national geographic in case anyone 
wants to try the same and it is easy to get). I ran it though about 6 
times and placed it under water for about 5 minutes. I was surprised 
to see clear results however there were some parts that did not fuse 
to the copper so I determined that I need more heat. I placed the 
cover and let it warm up 20 minutes and found that the nylon gears 
melted on the rollers. So now I have to cast new gears and try again. 
So my question to ones that have successful laminators, what is the 
temperature that they operate at so that I can replicate the 
results????





--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@y...> 
wrote:
> You know he has a point. After all, not all laminators are created
> equal, and I don't recall this particular laminator being mentioned.
> 
> I know I have a very good GBC laminator with adjustable temp, about 
3
> or 4 years old, and after about 8 passes it still won't fully stick 
to
> even one of those cardstock thin 1 oz doublesided boards.
> 
> Steve Greenfield
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486"
> <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > Dean:
> > Appreciate the sarcasm, no really, however that is not the answer 
to 
> > the question. Has anyone gone out to staples, purchased the lam 
and 
> > tried a toner transfer. I have seen lots of stuff on the net 
about 
> > research, but little proof that can be validated. Have you done 
so????
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean Batute" 
<phix_it@y...> 
> > wrote:
> > > Darrell,
> > >       a thread just finished DIRECTLY before your's. Not months 
> > ago, 
> > > nor weeks ago litteraly the posting before your's. Read the 
very 
> > > first message that began that Thread. Give you a hint...It was 
from 
> > > me.
> > > 
> > > For every one else....funny wouldn't you say? Here I 
am...research 
> > > research research, read ,read read, do everything I can to find 
out 
> > > info on a topic that interests me. For some....well...???
> > > Sometimes I wish I wasn't a polite Englishman.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Cheers....Dean.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486" 
> > > <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > > > Does anyone know if the Docuseal 95p at Staples will work for 
> > > PCB's. 
> > > > Has anyone tried it?????? I am thinking of purchasing one 
however 
> > I 
> > > > would like to know if it is worth it.