Homebrew PCBs

I second that.  That's exactly what I've been using.  For a guide line for cutting with a straight cut aviation tin snip, I show the board outline in the Eagle image export used for etching.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@...> wrote:
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> I use 0.031" instead of 0.062" FR4 for hobby use. It's much easier to work with. I can cut it cleanly with a paper trimmer or with sheet metal shears. I use the toner transfer method and this thickness works well with my laminator, no mods needed. I also find that my drill bits last longer. At first I was concerned about the board flexing but this was not a problem at all. Give it a try.
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> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
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> > I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.
> > 
> > I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide.  Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?
> > 
> > Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line.  I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges.  Score and snap took forever.  I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life.
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