On 20/03/12 08:42, Philip Pemberton wrote: > On 19/03/12 21:18, John Anhalt wrote: >> Hi Phil, >> >> This describes the whole process with cupric chloride: >> http://members.optusnet.com.au/eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html >> >> I have been using it for several years. Too much acid leads to >> undercutting, but the amount of acid is difficult for most DIY'ers to >> access. Go by specific gravity and color. > > OK, it looks like what I've ended up with is somewhat close to that -- almost > black liquid, but with green foam (and foam it does: I had to turn the air > pump right the way down after it foamed over the side of the etch tank and > onto the concrete floor!) Foaming too much sounds like you need to dilute with more water (like 50-100%). Add some HCl for faster etching too. > There's a slight yellow-brown tint to the green, so there's some FeCl3 left > in there (or at least some iron-based compound), but I don't think there's > much... > > Etch time with air on one-quarter is around 10 minutes, if even that. > > Now if only I could get my hands on dry-film photoresist in quantities less > than "two bloomin' great heavy reels" (which seems to be Mega's preferred > sales unit, at a cost of \ufffd100-odd plus VAT)...
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Rejuvenating ferric chloride etchants
2012-03-20 by Russell Shaw
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