Homebrew PCBs

Thanks for the info.

I'll start my tests with through hole and a regular iron.
Did anyone ever try to use a fuser unit from an old laser printer?
I have an old Laserjet II I can sacrifice for that. It should have the 
perfect temperature to transfer the toner. If I could get the speed down 
there should not be any need for multiple passes.

Bert


On 13/03/2012 15:22, Harvey White wrote:
>
> On Mon, 12 Mar 2012 09:48:12 +0100, you wrote:
>
> >Hi all,
> >
> >After a hiatus of many years I'm getting back into electronics (robotics
> >in particular). I have made a couple of PCBs using the photo transfer
> >method.
> >I am now venturing into SMD components and want to use the toner
> >transfer method as I have discarded my UV lightbox.
> >So I'd like to know what methods you guys use to get very thin traces
> >reliably.
>
> clean board, good paper, good laminator.
>
> >What are the limits of this method?
>
> I find that 10 mil traces are reliable, but somewhat picky to get
> right. 0.5 mm spacing on a VQFP-100 flatpack is about the limit for
> me, and the board still needs a bit of hand rework at times.
>
> >What are the things to look out for to get reliable thin traces?
>
> clean the board well. proper temperature and pressure in the
> laminator. For large (5x7) boards I run through 8 to 10 times with
> the laminator I have. You will need to experiment. Green foil helps
> a lot, but I have had instances where it simply does not adhere at
> all, ever. Then it may ruin the board. Odd. Best boards have green
> foil done properly. Photoresist is actually a better process when
> done with a good negative.
>
> You will need a laser printer with 1200 DPI, dense toner, and one that
> the toner softens at the proper temperature (that of the laminator).
> 600 DPI does not work for fine traces.
>
> Harvey
>
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Bert
>
> 



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