Homebrew PCBs

Laserstar :-)

http://www.megauk.com/artwork_films.php

http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/Laser-printer-PCB-artwork-film-29485

I do use OHP film as well, but only for projects where the slight 
buckling does not matter.

I found that I can cut it up and feed smaller pieces through the laser 
printer. In practice I get three or four boards from each A4 sheet 
(depends on the size of your boards of course). If you cut it up test 
with a piece of paper first to make sure you hit the target.

Interesting about the Samsung. I have been looking at a PC upgrade 
including Windows 7 and to my considerable annoyance my trusty Canon 
laser isn't supported by the OS.

Regards

Paul

On 16/02/2012 14:19, storan4wd wrote:
>
> I usually make PCBs with Riston dry film and artwork from an Epson D92 
> inkjet.
>
> Unfortunately, the inkjet can't cope with 0.5mm LQFP (edges are too 
> ragged especially on diagonals + there's too much sputtering at high 
> resolution 2400dpi or more and it won't print with black ink only at 
> high resolution so opacity is not satisfactory).
>
> So I bought a Samsung Monochrome Laser ML-1860. (£40 from Dixons UK) 
> It puts the inkjet in the shade - its 1200x1200dpi resolution easily 
> produces the artwork I need; on transparency OHP film LQFP pads match 
> up perfectly, large areas are opaque and 10mil track is unbroken. (For 
> toner transfer people, a quick test with magazine paper came out very 
> well - err.. make that jaw-droppingly well!)
>
> The only downside is the transparency film; both types of laser OHP 
> film I've tried (Clarkes Stationers "el cheapo own brand" and Black 
> Diamond 100micron Laser/Copier OHP Film) both buckle more than I would 
> have expected making contact exposure unhappy.
>
> I did try printing on paper and using oil to make it translucent but 
> the exposure times are too long compared with film + it buckles 
> slightly also.
>
> Anyone in the UK got a suggestion for a really stable Laser OHP film 
> please?
>
> 



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