With only two pins it is going to be of the cold start type using high voltage instead of heated filaments. I expect it won't start with a regular ballast. ST On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 5:05 PM, Benjamin Blumer <b3nzilla@gmail.com> wrote: > Just to confirm -- the U-shaped bulb I'm using has only one set of pins. Do > I use two pins on the lamp that are or that are not connected? > > > Thanks! > > > > On 2011-11-03, at 12:06 AM, Larry Battraw <lbattraw@...> wrote: > > > > On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 5:15 PM, b3nzilla <b3nzilla@...> wrote: > >> ** >> >> >> Hi all, >> >> After many hard-fought battles with different inkjet printers, I've >> decided to try using the UV method with negative photoresist. >> >> I'm wondering if anyone knows enough about the operation of UV ballasts to >> offer advice: >> I have an old lamp designed to take short, straight fluorescent tunes with >> ballasts on each end (4 pins in total). I'm wondering if that lamp will be >> compatible with this U-shaped bug killing bulb: >> > http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ultraviolet-replacement-bulb-for-bk-80acan-insect-killer/945544 > . Of course I'll make sure it fits, but I'm wondering if it's >> electronically compatible. >> > > Yes, it should be fine providing you get the filaments connected correctly > (i.e. you need to connect one filament to one side, and vice-versa). You > can check with an ohm-meter for a filament connection to determine a pair > of pins to connect to one side and then use the other pair for the other > side. Sorry if I'm not explaining this clearly but you need to make sure > that you don't cross-connect the pins of the ballast since it could damage > it. The only other thing to check for is the wattage of the ballast and > the bulb you're using. Generally you can use a larger-sized (Within > 25-50%) ballast for a smaller tube but not the other way around since > ballasts tend to run hot anyway. > >> >> From the fluorescent-light Wikipedia page, I'm having a hard time figuring >> out if the operation on both ends is symmetric. >> >> Yes, operation is symmetric since the tube is fed on AC and has no > polarity. Each tube end has an identical heater filament to connect to one > half of the ballast. If your existing ballast won't work for you there's > always the possibility of buying a proper ballast (And if not integrated, > an igniter) and soldering directly to the tube instead of fooling around > with flaky connectors. You're very unlikely use the light enough to need > to replace it anyway (I've had the same lights for years and only replaced > them when I accidentally broke them). I would recommend using at least two > of the U-shaped bulbs to get enough light to provide an even light > distribution at an appropriate distance. > > Regards, > Larry > >> __.__Y >> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Using 2-pronged, U-shaped bug killing UV lamp in a lamp designed for straight
2011-11-03 by Stefan Trethan
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