Hello Markus,
Markus Zingg wrote:
[delete]
can have rinse as part of the "main" tank. Otherwise the
rinse tanks will have to be separate. I have seen commercial
counterflow rinsing systems built with one larger tank
partitioned into equal sections, but I guess that would be
the obvious way to it.
follow. You might remember I am using a different chemistry
up until the copper electroplating. I'm not really developed
enough to describe them in detail yet.
I fully understand the importance of making sure every step
is followed properly. Correct bath temperature, dwell times,
and rinsing are essential.
become softer at that temperature ? You mentioned that
working with hobbyglass is easy using hot air tools, so I
assumed it to be similar to ridged PVC, which I found very
easy to work with compared to plastics like Plexiglas
(perspex), polypropylene, polyethylene, polycarbonate.
PVC begins to become soft after 52 to 56°C, and at 65° is
like a very stiff rubbery material and becomes softer as
temperature rises.
I also found that making wooden jigs helps the building
plastic tanks. From your photos, it looks like you have done
very well.
solution tends to stay on the surface and in holes. You can
see this when the PCB pulled from an acid solution, rinsed
and then allowed to dry. Small traces of acid stain the pink
copper, and it takes a lot more than a 10 seconds of rinsing
to remove enough acid for no staining to occur.
eventually take their toll. Have you thought of putting a
hinged lid with some plastic foam underneath to help seal
off the tanks ?
I'm surprised you cannot find drum taps. They are very cheap
and sold almost any hardware store here in Australia. The
cheap ones are about AU$1 wholesale.
our operations. Spray might achieve the same result faster,
or better for removing solids. I don't think is would be
essential for the palladium system (super activation) you
are using. Immersion in a rinse tank and gentle movement of
the panel for 1 minute should properly rinse. Its mainly
drilled holes that are more difficult to flush out.
Having recently shopped around for a pump for a spray
etching machine, its clear that spraying equipment is going
to cost you :) The Iwaki WD-70RZ I was initially looking at
can produce 1.5bar at 20L/min but costs AU$600 ($US380), the
Iwaki WD-30RZ 0.9bar at 9L/min, but I can get for AU$250
($US170). The lower practical limit for spray nozzles is
about 0.7 bar so hopefully I can get by with the cheaper pump.
Thanks again for your help, I'll keep you informed when
things develop.
Adam
Markus Zingg wrote:
[delete]
> Yes, however the tanks are SEPERATED from each other by a ~1" sizedThat makes perfect sense. Only the baths at room temperature
> gap. That's needed cause the temperature of the baths must be
> controlled individually. That's important here and I mention it to
> give another indication why creating a tank and puting in walls is a
> bad idea here.
can have rinse as part of the "main" tank. Otherwise the
rinse tanks will have to be separate. I have seen commercial
counterflow rinsing systems built with one larger tank
partitioned into equal sections, but I guess that would be
the obvious way to it.
>Thanks for the detailed description of the process you
> Ok, here we go:
follow. You might remember I am using a different chemistry
up until the copper electroplating. I'm not really developed
enough to describe them in detail yet.
I fully understand the importance of making sure every step
is followed properly. Correct bath temperature, dwell times,
and rinsing are essential.
> bath #1 is a Cleaner Conditioner that must be run at 65-70 degrees65 - 70°C is a high temperature, does "hobbyglass" material
> celsius (149 - 158 farenheit) the PCB must reside in this bath for 7
> minutes. Thereafter there is a 1 minutes static rinse followed by 1
> minute spray rinse .
become softer at that temperature ? You mentioned that
working with hobbyglass is easy using hot air tools, so I
assumed it to be similar to ridged PVC, which I found very
easy to work with compared to plastics like Plexiglas
(perspex), polypropylene, polyethylene, polycarbonate.
PVC begins to become soft after 52 to 56°C, and at 65° is
like a very stiff rubbery material and becomes softer as
temperature rises.
I also found that making wooden jigs helps the building
plastic tanks. From your photos, it looks like you have done
very well.
> I rinse the pcb's simply in a water tank, then go to the wall waterI can understand why 1 minute is needed for rinsing because
> outlet? (don't know the propper english term) and rinse it there for
> another minute. I use a kitchen timer watch to controll the durations
> and take very much care to stay within these times and temperatures. I
> never had a problem yet by doing so.
solution tends to stay on the surface and in holes. You can
see this when the PCB pulled from an acid solution, rinsed
and then allowed to dry. Small traces of acid stain the pink
copper, and it takes a lot more than a 10 seconds of rinsing
to remove enough acid for no staining to occur.
>I always used lids on my tanks, dust and evaporation will
> I wanted to do something with such a drum tap but haven't found them
> here. Since with my station the tanks simply are standing within the
> grid takeing them out even if they are full is no problem. Once they
> are out they can easily be emptied into normal plastic tanks. In
> general this is definately a very good idea cause some of the fluids
> tend to "vaporize" away if the tanks are not closed - which is hard to
> achive. So, if you can empty the tanks whenever the station is not
> needed this is definately the best solution. Aditionally you will find
> that the stations remains a lot cleaner over time this way.
eventually take their toll. Have you thought of putting a
hinged lid with some plastic foam underneath to help seal
off the tanks ?
I'm surprised you cannot find drum taps. They are very cheap
and sold almost any hardware store here in Australia. The
cheap ones are about AU$1 wholesale.
>>My aim is to have then entire PCB processing equipment inI cannot see why spray rinsing would be that important for
>>the one area so I can make a board without having to run
>>around over the place. By including rinse tanks I think it
>>will make the job easier to control. Would you agree ?
>
>
> Yes, I agree that having the rinse tanks close is a good idea. I don't
> know though if you manage to have a good spray rinse situation without
> too much hazzle though.
our operations. Spray might achieve the same result faster,
or better for removing solids. I don't think is would be
essential for the palladium system (super activation) you
are using. Immersion in a rinse tank and gentle movement of
the panel for 1 minute should properly rinse. Its mainly
drilled holes that are more difficult to flush out.
Having recently shopped around for a pump for a spray
etching machine, its clear that spraying equipment is going
to cost you :) The Iwaki WD-70RZ I was initially looking at
can produce 1.5bar at 20L/min but costs AU$600 ($US380), the
Iwaki WD-30RZ 0.9bar at 9L/min, but I can get for AU$250
($US170). The lower practical limit for spray nozzles is
about 0.7 bar so hopefully I can get by with the cheaper pump.
Thanks again for your help, I'll keep you informed when
things develop.
Adam