Homebrew PCBs

It sounds like HCL is reacting with your equipment. Try using HCL
resistant materials. Google search found this useful website.
http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp



On Sat, Sep 24, 2011 at 3:44 PM, hondgm <hondgm@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Hello
>
> I have been etching PCBs for years using ferrous chloride, but wanted to
> try cupric chloride. I mixed hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide, put
> some oxidized copper in it to get it started, but never really tried it. I
> had some frustrating experiences because I had no idea that nylon should not
> be put into the solution. I made a bubble tank which used zip ties, and they
> dissolved and poisoned the solution. I made it again, but used a nylon
> string to lower the test board into the solution. The string dissolved.
> After some Internet research, I realized what was happening, but apparently
> this isn't a common problem. I had a lot of trouble tracking the issue down.
>
> I put the solution and tank away for a few years and just used FeCl3 for
> the few boards I made at home. Today, I decided to get the solution out and
> try it. The air hose going into the tank was oily feeling, but I suspect
> it's silicone leeching from the hose (some of the solution was in the hose).
> The hose inside the tank was even worse. Also, a seal around the lid of the
> tank (essentially a water pitcher from Target) was degraded and crumbled
> away when I took the lid off. The hose was a plain fish tank type hose I got
> from Lowe's.
>
> I'd like to hear some other experiences regarding this. I'm about to give
> up on cupric chloride and go back to ferrous or try sodium persulfate. It
> seems that the cupric attacks nearly everything, well almost everything
> except the tank itself.
>
>  
>


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