Homebrew PCBs

You know, of all the stuff I've tried...the Pulsar blue paper, the 
Press-n-Peel, magazine paper, etc, the best results I have ever gotten 
from the toner transfer method is the over the counter glossy paper at 
Kinko's, now FedEx Office.  It doesn't come off as cleanly as the 
special papers, leaving the white stuff behind which you can actually 
take a scrub brush to without it coming off, but it resists the etchant 
longer and gives the cleanest traces and pads fo any of them.  Sometimes 
the simplest is the best.



On 04/23/2011 10:54 PM, H1000100 wrote:
>
> I finally etched my board. Result was excellent. Pics are posted in 
> the photo section under "Samsung 1665"
>
> This is a relatively complex 2 sided board. As I've mentioned 
> previously, the I used a Samsung 1665 printer on glossy magazine 
> paper. It only took one try to get etchable results. Transfer was done 
> using the lowest cost laminator from Walmart. I ran it through 4 times.
>
> Etching was done using 500ml of cupric chloride which I made by 
> dissolving copper wires in HCL and 33% H202. I have 1.5L but I was 
> curious how much H2O2 is needed to keep the etchant fresh. This board 
> required 25 drops. The solution turns brownish when it is spent. 
> Adding a few drops of h202 changes the color back to emerald green.
>
> Many mentioned having trouble removing the toner after etching. In 
> Canada, there's a paint brush cleaner call "Polyclens". I just paint 
> it on, wait 30 seconds and then wipe off the toner with paper towel.
>
> 



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