Homebrew PCBs

I have the plotter running - slow.  And I always add angle to each 90 deg trace
in the artwork.  A short trace placed in the inside corner of each trace.  The
angle is the shortest one that fits for the trace width. That helps and touchup
after plotting does too.   I also sometimes keep the pcb in the plotter after
its done, and replot after it has dried 15-20.  That CG pen I use doesn't seem
to scrape ink off on retracing.

Stefan Trethan wrote:

> which tip has this pen?
> which color has the ink?
>
> maybe i really have to search this bottle of fe3cl... and then try
> different inks.
>
> The problem with using pens directly for me was that line with varies with
> speed.
> at the corners the pen slows down and the line with increases.
> i didn'tlike this, the were small tears at both sides of each corner.
>
> don't you have this problem with the resist pen?
>
> st
>
> On Sat, 20 Sep 2003 21:06:55 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...> wrote:
>
> > Here's what works for me, I use a HP 7475 pen plotter with a slot cut in
> > the
> > case.  I use a GC #22-222 Etch Resist Ink Pen.  1/64 " tip.  Its fitted
> > into a
> > drilled and honed out dried up HP pen.  I have to keep etching fast. I
> > heat Fe
> > CL3 on my grill outside, in a oven dish.  Wear glasses, gloves, and
> > apron.  I
> > use a oven baster to spray the center of the project.  The edges seem to
> > eat
> > off first and I keep the acid going to the board center.  This is not a
> > time to
> > walk off and come back.  I keep an eye on the board till it is complete.
> > You
> > can always put it back in, but once its eaten the copper away its done.
> >
> > Stefan Trethan wrote:
> >
> >> @Dave
> >> thanks for the tip with laquer thinner for solving colophony resin.
> >> i tried it and it is much better than alcohol.
> >> The "laquer" is the same density / concentration in the whole jar, it
> >> stays
> >> good dissolved without stirring etc.
> >> with alcohol it was always thicker at the bottom (with acetone too).
> >> Dries quick and leaves a shiny coat.
> >>
> >> I actually tried it as a resin for etching (because the quality is much
> >> better now).
> >> The problem is the plotter pens i have (carbide tipped) don't leave a
> >> thick
> >> enough layer to resist HCl H2O2.
> >> I will try repeated plotting and maybe try Fe3Cl which i have standing
> >> around somewhere (Does it decay in a sealed Bottle?).
> >>
> >> But i applied it with a piece of wire and with a piece of a paper towel
> >> "disposeable brush with needle-nose pliers handle).
> >>
> >> And this areas resisted the etching very well.
> >> So i think the plotter pens simply make a too thin layer.
> >>
> >> any ideas? - would be great to solder the boards with resin layer and
> >> also
> >> protection against corrosion.
> >>
> >> st
> >>
> >>
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