Homebrew PCBs

8 passes! Wow, I see I should try more since I left after the 5th pass.

Thank you :)

GN

2010/9/19 Bob Macklin <macklinbob@...>

>
>
> Try multiple passes of your board through the laminator. I am using 8
> passes
> with my GSB laminator and seem to be doing OK.
>
>
> Bob Macklin
> K5MYJ
> Seattle, Wa.
> "Real Radios Glow In The Dark"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gokhan Nalbant" <gokhan.nalbant@...<gokhan.nalbant%40gmail.com>
> >
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>>
> Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 11:50 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re:GBC Laminators
>
> Hi,
>
> I have GBC H65 laminator, I modified it according to the instructions as
> stated below link.
>
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
>
> I replaced the R1 with a 8K2 metal film resistor and as it states the
> temperature should be around 150�C and that should be sufficient for proper
> toner transfer. I am using 1.5mm/0.06" epoxy cards, they are thick for that
> laminator but a little help just meoves them in to the laminator.
>
> My printer is HP P1005 and although I used several transfer papers
> including
> the one from Pulsar, I could not succeed transfering the toner. I was
> successful using an iron, it seems that 150�C is not enough to heat the HP
> toner.
>
> Should I lower the value of the resistor for a higher degree or use another
> printer, such as I have also Xerox 3117?
>
> GN
>
> <
> http://www.databrite.co.uk/parts/shop.php/modifying-a-gbc-laminator/i_11.html
> >
>
> 2010/9/19 RDHeiliger <rdheiliger@... <rdheiliger%40msn.com>>
>
> >
> >
> > I have had two of the GBC personal type laminators. They work fine for
> > lower temperature toners. After my old Minolta printer with low
> > temperature
> > toner died, I bought an HP 1006. The temperature of the toner is much
> > higher. I added an external temperature control to the laminator to get
> > the
> > toner to transfer. The resulting problem was that so much heat is
> > transferred out thru the rollers that the plastic side frames melted. The
> > roller bearings melted a slot in the side frames. I don't recommend this
> > laminator.
> >
> > I have since bought a laminator with a metal frame. AL18P. The feed rate
> > on
> > this laminator is much to high, I replaced the motor with a DC gear motor
> > and a cheap variable 6-24 VDC power supply. The temperature control also
> > did
> > not go as high as the spec sheet said it would. The temperature sensor
> > looks
> > to be a glass bead diode. It is mounted on a spring loaded arm that rides
>
> > on
> > the feed roll. Moving the sensor about 1/4" away from the roll increases
> > the
> > temperature enough to get pretty consistent transfers. I also reduced the
> > spring tension on the rollers to reduce the spreading of the traces. I
> > also
> > had a problem with the connections inside the heating elements. The crimp
> > connections inside the glass tube heating elements got so hot that the
> > copper wires back to the control burned off. I had to stretch the
> nichrome
> > elements out and make the connections outside of the glass tube. May
> sound
> > like a lot of hassles but at least the side frames don't melt. It still
> > takes 3 passes thru the laminator to get good transfers.
> >
> > The direct toner methods seem promising, but the need of a separate
> > laminator to do the fusing doesn't give it much of an advantage over just
> > using paper for the transfer.
> >
> > RD
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]