The 12V proxxon will also work just fine. I got one so I don't need to take the industrial one out of the drill stand for other jobs. It was cheap, maybe 20eur or so, the industrial mains powered one was 5 times as much. ST On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 1:22 AM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote: > On Tue, 25 May 2010 16:02:07 -0400, you wrote: > >>Is a dremel adequate for drilling pcbs using carbide drills? I know >>it isn't good enough for pcb routing, but just for drilling?? If not, >>what is a good, small, reasonably priced alternative? > > A dremel will work with carbide drills and the dremel stand. > > Having said that, the runout (wobble) on a dremel is rather nasty, and > limits your ability to do fine holes (say #75 or so). Drill wobbles > too much and makes too big a hole. The drill press attachment is > wobbly at best. > > I have a (more expensive) Proxxon. It's the industrial model, 120 > vac, 20K rpm. Much better bearings, better collet. Have a bit of a > homemade drill press stand, works reasonably well, no idea how good > the proxxon stock model works. > > I like the Proxxon better, bought it after the Dremel (hand model, 70 > some dollars, nice kit, good for what it does, not as good for pcb > drilling.) > > Harvey > >> >>Mark >> >> >>At 05:59 PM 5/24/2010, you wrote: >>>On Mon, 24 May 2010 22:40:31 +0200, you wrote: >>> >>> >I think even with a single sided board the light shining through the >>> >center of the pad might be enought to locate it depending on PCB >>> >material. Or one could turn it over, of course. >>> >>> >>>In my experience, trying to locate holes and align them, no. You >>>wouldn't b happy with the results. I'd say either drill from bottom, >>>right side up, or drill from top, top side down. >>> >>>Problem with turning the board over is not the dust collection, it's >>>the large (and bulky) drill mechanism. Clamps are not always needed, >>>but might help. Hydraulics are not needed, but a spring and solenoid >>>might help. >>> >>>It does sound like an interesting project. >>> >>>Harvey >>> >>> > >>> >ST >>> > >>> >On Mon, May 24, 2010 at 10:37 PM, Mark Lerman <mlerman@ix.netcom.com> wrote: >>> >> >>> >> I was thinking that the board would have to be upside down when you >>> >> drilled it because the camera would have to see the top of the board, >>> >> but you're right, there will be pads on the bottom of the board, >>> >> too. Yes, camera on bottom is probably better, and certainly easier >>> >> to implement. I've got a video otoscope that's made for close focus - >>> >> have to give it a try. >>> >> >>> >> Mark >>> >> >>> > >>> > >>> >------------------------------------ >>> > >>> >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >>> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> >>> >>>------------------------------------ >>> >>>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links >>> >>> >>> >> >> >>------------------------------------ >> >>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: light ring conversion for miniature drill press
2010-05-26 by Stefan Trethan
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