Homebrew PCBs

Put the carrier on a rail so it cannot move side to side but still (be 
adjusted?) move up n down.
Then have a raised area (maybe a square) to butt the PCB (corner) up 
against ... there may be other details that
that need attention ... but this may be a start.
When the PCB/carrier is staged (prior to print) maybe the x and y could 
be trimmed.
There would have to be a fiducial mark on each side of the blank PCB.
Jim KI6MZ
 
Mark Lerman wrote:
> Well, I've done some tests trying it the easy way, and while it 
> SHOULD work, it doesn't, at least not consistently. The problem is 
> that both the carrier and the board are (obviously) much thicker than 
> paper, and when they hit the drum/transfer roller interface there is 
> a slight (and variable) delay as first the carrier and then the board 
> go through. There are also problems in the X axis because the carrier 
> "grabs" slightly when it hits the drum and has a tendency to get a 
> little out of parallel to the motion axis. In theory we could wait 
> till the pcb (or a "header" of equal thickness) is under the drum 
> before telling it to print. However, this may create problems in the 
> charging timing since the printer does not expect there to be a board 
> present at that time. The X axis problem could be handled with a 
> better and longer carrier guide, but too much friction would create 
> its own problems.
>
> There is no reason that DLP can't do ds boards, but I'm far from sure 
> that the mechanics of your typical laser printer can be "bulked up" 
> enough mechanically to produce consistent results. Probably the best 
> way to do ds DLP would be to make a flatbed laser system, much as has 
> been done for inkjets. Print one side, put it in an oven to fix the 
> toner, flip it and print the other side.
>
> This would also be the way to go for a commercial product - anyone 
> interested in collaborating?
>
> Mark
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