Slavko Kocjancic wrote:
roller has the heater itself and they heat the board to the desired temp
in a single pass. Cheap laminators have rollers heated like 'oven
cooking' (rolls inside a chamber with heaters) and very low termal
transfer to a pcb, that's why people use multiple pass. I would say that
temp and speed control modifications of this laminators is kind of
useless or a way to damage the rubber roll but i don't want to insult
anyone.
After use a 5 digits priced laminator every laminator i look for was
cheap crap or inaccessible expensive. I ended buying a GBC H400 A3
laminator with temp control by 80eur. They said it had 4 rollers which
convinced me to buy it. I expected the 'holy grail' but was a bad
choice, besides the ugly bad circuit inside, the 2 front rollers are
also 'toasted' to heat up. It still makes the best toner transfers i
ever done (after multiple pass) and it can handle thickness of 2mm
easily, but i want one with better rolls. I should search for print
shops scrap instead.
I find the temp control useless, the sensor is below the aluminum frame
not on the roller surface. And i guess at least 1000W per roller is
necessary to heat the board while running, mine has 700W in total. The
motor in my laminator seems a AC Permanent-split capacitor motor, not
the easiest to speed control (btw, changing the capacitor value
works??). Running it slower can burn the exposed rubber on the roller, i
guess the manufactor defined the speed by the rubber termal specs,
changing it seems always bad. Worst in my case, i wish only the back
rollers attached to the motor and the front ones free, only a little
stuck to stretch a dryfilm sheet. But for good termal transfer and good
stretching there is Adam Seychell method.
Slavko, Peach laminator models does not have the rolls built in heater
or 4 rolls? Few time ago a fellow from Slovenia posted an hacked peach
laminator, i described another hack to improve dry film use but i
thought the aluminum profiles were his add not a 'toasting' heater. Only
the rolls with built in heater can heat without rolling, the 'toasted'
type must be rolling while heating or may burn.
(btw ebay item 140359297404 has a nice internal picture with visible
rolls, not inside 'toasting' chamber, but without visible electric
connections to the rolls).
Simão
>Slavko, you are absolutely correct. In expensive laminators the rubber
> If that's true then there are different laminators.
> I use Peach model's and Rex have same principle the heater heat
> parabolic curved alu extrusions and this is on one side
> of roller. That heat roller and in other side the laminated object is.
> The heather transfer area cover just little more than 1/2 of roller
> circumfanse. The only hoot item near laminated object is roller
> itself.
>
> If you are correct. ie board are preheated and after that just pressed
> by (cold) roller then slowdown should help. But I'm in doubt if the
> roller itself can handle raised temperature as cooper has good heat
> transfer compared with paper and plastic. I assume that in your
> laminator the rollers are just little heated by medium. In my
> laminator the roller itself heat medium.
>
> That can be mystery solved why some laminator roller's are destroyed
> if heater is forced to aprox 200centigrade.
roller has the heater itself and they heat the board to the desired temp
in a single pass. Cheap laminators have rollers heated like 'oven
cooking' (rolls inside a chamber with heaters) and very low termal
transfer to a pcb, that's why people use multiple pass. I would say that
temp and speed control modifications of this laminators is kind of
useless or a way to damage the rubber roll but i don't want to insult
anyone.
After use a 5 digits priced laminator every laminator i look for was
cheap crap or inaccessible expensive. I ended buying a GBC H400 A3
laminator with temp control by 80eur. They said it had 4 rollers which
convinced me to buy it. I expected the 'holy grail' but was a bad
choice, besides the ugly bad circuit inside, the 2 front rollers are
also 'toasted' to heat up. It still makes the best toner transfers i
ever done (after multiple pass) and it can handle thickness of 2mm
easily, but i want one with better rolls. I should search for print
shops scrap instead.
I find the temp control useless, the sensor is below the aluminum frame
not on the roller surface. And i guess at least 1000W per roller is
necessary to heat the board while running, mine has 700W in total. The
motor in my laminator seems a AC Permanent-split capacitor motor, not
the easiest to speed control (btw, changing the capacitor value
works??). Running it slower can burn the exposed rubber on the roller, i
guess the manufactor defined the speed by the rubber termal specs,
changing it seems always bad. Worst in my case, i wish only the back
rollers attached to the motor and the front ones free, only a little
stuck to stretch a dryfilm sheet. But for good termal transfer and good
stretching there is Adam Seychell method.
Slavko, Peach laminator models does not have the rolls built in heater
or 4 rolls? Few time ago a fellow from Slovenia posted an hacked peach
laminator, i described another hack to improve dry film use but i
thought the aluminum profiles were his add not a 'toasting' heater. Only
the rolls with built in heater can heat without rolling, the 'toasted'
type must be rolling while heating or may burn.
(btw ebay item 140359297404 has a nice internal picture with visible
rolls, not inside 'toasting' chamber, but without visible electric
connections to the rolls).
Simão