Homebrew PCBs

Also I run stuff over the drum all the time. If you can run card stock through a machine, you can run the 8mil SS PCB stock( that I do ) also.
I do put Kapton tape on the leading edge. Paper is abrasive a anything else, try rubbing your glasses with it.

It not failed for me either. If it was to wear after N iterations, I'd get another printer and keep going.

I use a similar but different process and it works fine.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Lee Studley <indigo_red@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry, but it bugs me when people jump in and say "it won't work, or 
> sorry to rain on your parade"
> 
> Ok, prove to me it *** WON'T***  work.
> 
> Have you tried it and failed with every possible variation, or are you 
> just reading the wiki or "How it works" and
> making a global statement that hopefully true engineers won't listen too.
> 
> I sorta like innovation. When we are kids, we can do anything.
> When we get older, people like tell us how we can't do things.
> Funny that the innovators are usually the young ones, or still young in 
> mind.
> 
>  >Won't work anyway, the copper mucks up the static charge lasers use to 
> get
>  >the powder to stick to the drum, then transfer to the paper (or PCB here).
> 
> Top of my head: Find a way to localize the charges by maybe sandpapering 
> or pre-ectching
> for rough micro-peaks.
>