Homebrew PCBs

Craig,

That's a good question. I'm having trouble with the fusing process. 
When I heat to say 350 F, the toner comes off in some areas when I 
etch. If I really heat the board to say 450F, the toner melts and 
spreads some, but really adheres well. I bought a stage micrometer 
and have been trying to measure trace widths, but since I haven't 
stabilized my process, I'm not sure exactly what I have, though I do 
think there is some spread. I would be interested in any results from 
the sprinkled toner on ink people - what temperature do you heat the 
board at, and for how long? Is there any spread?

The toner transfer people tell me there is no spread with tt. Perhaps 
I should heat the board at a lower temperature to lightly fuse the 
toner, then run it through a laminator??

I'm also still experimenting with etching, using peroxide/HCl, but 
etching has been uneven with the areas around traces seeming to etch 
way before the rest of the board.

All-in-all, there are a LOT of variables, but I have been making some progress.

Mark



At 11:57 AM 4/28/2010, you wrote:
>Mark,
>I would be interested in more info on your process. Do you get much 
>spreading of the trace width during the reflow fusing in the oven.
>
>Thanks,
>Craig
>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mark Lerman <mlerman@...> wrote:
> >
> > I don't want a flame war here, but I've got a board in my hand,
> > direct from my modified laser printer, that says you are wrong. When
> > the boards come out of my laser printer the toner is quite solidly
> > attached to the copper. You can turn the board over and tap it or
> > blow on it strongly without disturbing the toner.
> >
> > Interestingly, double clad boards are easier to do than single sided
> > ones. It seems to require a much higher voltage to charge a board
> > that does not have copper touching the transfer roller.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> >
> > At 08:45 AM 4/28/2010, you wrote:
> > > > The Brother HL-2170W claims to have a straight through path for card
> > > > stock, etc...
> > > >
> > > > Has anyone tried to use this to print directly on PCB blanks?
> > >
> > >
> > >Won't work anyway, the copper mucks up the static charge lasers use to get
> > >the powder to stick to the drum, then transfer to the paper (or PCB here).
> > >
> > >There's always a first though.
> > >
> > >Tony
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >------------------------------------
> > >
> > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, 
> and Photos:
> > >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>