Homebrew PCBs

Mark,

I'd love to here more about this when you get the process perfected!

-Andrew

On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 8:14 AM, Mark Lerman <mlerman@....com> wrote:

>
>
>
> A subject dear to my heart!
>
> I have spent the last six months experimenting with direct laser
> printing of PCBs, and I am now able to (fairly) reliably produce
> boards using this method. If anyone is interested I can share a LOT
> of details, but the Brother is NOT the way to go. I spent a month or
> so working with the HL-2170, as well as a few other false starts
> before settling on the Lexmark E260 as the printer of choice. The
> "straightness" of the path is relative, and all of the laser printers
> have to be modified to pass pcbs, although you can run the thin,
> somewhat flexible (eg 8 mil) boards through some of them. You cannot
> use the internal fuser.
>
> When I described some of my earlier efforts at direct laser pcb,
> there was some concern that the drum is too easily damaged. In the
> past months I have made several hundred "runs" through my modified
> printer, many of which were experimental, without proper smoothing
> and protecting of edges, and I am still using the same drum. I am
> still not sure of the limits of the process, but I have produced 5
> mil traces without problems.
>
> The steps are:
> 1 - Produce the artwork - I use Eagle.
> 2 - Print the pcb.
> 3 - Place board in oven to "fuse".
> 4 - Etch.
>
> One real advantage of direct laser pcb is that you can see the
> results instantly, and if the "image" is not perfect, you can just
> brush the toner off, wipe the board with acetone, and do another run!
>
> I was waiting till I had the process perfected before "publishing" on
> this forum, but if anyone is interested, I can provide details. You will
> need:
>
> 1 - A Laser Printer - I strongly recommend the Lexmark E260, on sale
> at Staples for $169 (?) with an additional $50 off if you bring in
> any dead printer for "recycling".
> 2 - A high voltage power supply to provide a variable Transfer
> Voltage. A 3KV (variable) at 100 microamps will do - Ebay is your friend.
> 3 - A high voltage relay to switch between the internal transfer
> voltage and the external supply is useful but not strictly necessary.
> 4 - A simple microprocessor board to spoof the sensors that need to
> be emulated and control the printer solenoids and such.
>
> Mark
>
>  
>


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