DJ Delorie wrote: > Adam Seychell <a_seychell@...> writes: >> Ok. so when you exposed the resist for 2 minutes with the step gauge in >> place, then what you observed at step 5 was slightly unexposed >> photoresist. Regions under steps 1 to 4 therefore must of been fully >> exposed. Correct ? > > Yes. 1 to 4 were fully exposed; they got enough UV to cure. Recall > this is a negative resist, transparent = UV = cure = copper. Steps 6 > through 21 were uncured, and the copper removed when etched. > thanks, its getting a bit clearer now. So lets say your test expose for 120 seconds with the step gauge and full cure occurs at step 4. The level of UV radiation at step 4 might be your final goal when exposing PCBs. Exposure time for PCB fabrication will then be: 120 / (1.41 * 1.41 * 1.41 ) = 42 seconds This is because step 1 is 100% transmission, and step 4 has 2^(-3/2) = 1/(1.41 * 1.41 * 1.41 ) = 35% transmission. An alternate explanation is in terms of energy. To get equal exposure energy for arbitrary time and transmission you have to keep constant (time * transmission) product. 120 sec * 35% = t * 100% t = 120 * 0.35 / 1.00 = 42 seconds I cannot understand why you need a 5.5 minute PCB exposure based on your results. A 42 second PCB exposure agrees a lot more with my experiences. >> The data sheet for some resist I once had said 10 to 15 minutes hold time. > > The riston data sheet doesn't say, but thinktink says 15 min to 8 > hours. http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voli/store/specs/m115spec.htm interesting. They say in "note 2" that it can be developed immediately it may compromises adhesion. I found adhesion increases over time too, and so that's second reason for leaving it. This may be especially true for wet lamination, so water has dime to diffuse.
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV LED box
2008-06-20 by Adam Seychell
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