Homebrew PCBs

Hi James,

Thank you for your reply, the reason I was interested in this printer 
is obviously the price. Here in the UK it is £42.72 and comes with a 
1000 prints cartridge. A 3000 prints cartridge costs £55.64 which is 
still ok!

I will be using it for PCB's and the occasional letter/document so I 
am sure the ink will last me for quite a while.

Since you've had good results with it then no reason why I shouldn't 
give it a try.

Thanks,
Elia

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James Bishop" <bishopaj@...> 
wrote:
>
> Hi Elia,
> 
> I bought the ML-2010 printer and have been having good results so 
far. I'm
> very happy with it considering the price - it costs about $70 in 
australia.
> Its the only printer I've used for toner transfer so I can't 
compare it to
> others.
> 
> The main thing is to get the right paper - the best thing i have 
found so
> far is some advertising brocures from a local computer store. They 
are quite
> thin, and glossy (but not super glossy). They soak off the board 
easily. I
> need to perfect my technique, i've had some variable results like 
pitted
> traces, or sometimes smeared traces. And sometimes it works out 
perfectly. I
> suspect that this is to do with pressure and/or temperature. 
Currently my
> method is this:
> 1. I put the pcb on an old book, and lay the printout on top of it, 
and lay
> baking paper on top of that
> 2. I sit an iron at full temperature on top of this and leave it 
for a few
> minutes, not pressing, until the board is nice and hot
> 3. I then remove the iron and carefully roll a rolling pin over it 
in
> several directions to get it evenly stuck onto the board. Be 
careful not to
> smear
> 4. At this point i just drop the board into cold water, wait a 
minute for
> the paper to soften up a bit, and then start rubbing the paper with 
my
> fingers to remove it from the board. The toner is usually pretty 
well stuck,
> if you find that the toner comes off then you probably need more 
heat or
> pressure.
> 5. Check the results, make sure you get rid of any remaining paper 
fibers.
> If it looks smudged or pitted, try again.
> 
> With this method i've done some .5mm pitch tqfps.
> 
> I havent run out of toner yet, but i've probably only printed about 
20 pages
> - i only use it for pcbs! If you're going to actually print 
documents, then
> you might want to check the cost of the toner (probably more than 
the
> printer). Also i dont recommend trying transparencies, i put one in 
the
> other day which is supposedly laser-printable and it got totally 
melted and
> wrapped around the fuser, and was quite difficult to extract. 
Fortunately
> the printer seems to have survived. I read on this group that the 
toner in
> these printers has a higher melting point than others, the warning 
sticker
> on the fuser says 180 degrees c.
> 
> Good luck...
> 
> James.
> 
> On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 10:20 PM, eliamady <eliamady123@...> wrote:
> 
> >   Hi All,
> >
> > I am considering buying a laser printer for home that I can use 
for PCB
> > printing as well using toner transfer method. The printer I have 
in
> > mind is Samsung ML2010. Has anyone used it for PCB's? Is it 
recommended
> > for that?
> >
> > Thank you for your help
> >
> > Elia
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>