Homebrew PCBs

I'm waiting for some 1/32 board to arrive, but meanwhile I'm using 
some very thin (.010) DS board and some 1/32 aluminum as well as 1/16 
pcb to experiment with. The toner seems pretty well fixed on the 
board - even a moderate puff will not dislodge it. I think it's going 
to take a fair amount of experimentation, but it should work.
I just ordered a simple pid controller that I'm going to try to hook 
to an electric skillet to fuse the toner. I'm also going to see if I 
can move the printer's fuser back the inch or so it needs to go to 
provide a straight path. I have to move a gear and remount the fuser, 
but it looks like there is enough room. Unfortunately, my machining 
skills leave much to be desired. If it works, it will pretty neat - 
just print the board, etch and drill!

Mark


At 10:16 AM 3/27/2008, you wrote:

>--- Mark Lerman <mlerman@...> wrote:
>
> > Thanks, Rob, for the detailed information - very
> > informative. The
> > spark seems to be a single spark, not always
> > present, seen after the
> > board leading edge leaves the printer. I've been
> > assuming it's static
> > electricity. I've been handling the boards as they
> > leave the printer
> > (careless??) with no problems, i.e. no shock.
> >
>Try beveling the edges of the copper on the leading
>edge.  High voltage doesn't like sharp edges.  Just
>light sind or file the edges of the board.  See if
>that helps.
>
>A slight radius on the corners could help too.
>
>
> 
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