Homebrew PCBs

Hello,   For SolderMask with Inkjet printer, you can see form Printar 
http://www.all4-pcb.us/printar.htm <http://www.all4-pcb.us/printar.htm>
The ink for solder mask is appromatevely the same for nomenclature just
the color green or white.   But the viscosity is so so so hight, you can
turn the pot and the ink not go out, very big marmelade, i think no
possibility to put in inkjet cartridje   Special ink for solderMask, is
necessacery go to 250° centigrade, for resist solder and automatik
solder machine, reflow.   Also, special ink for solder mask by "LACKWERK
PETERS" http://www.peters.de/index_e.htm
<http://www.peters.de/index_e.htm>    ELPEMER photoimageable is a nice
system 2467 pack, but in component. Developement in sodic soap.   For
dry film solder mask: CONFORMASK by  SHIPLEY
http://www.pcb-pool.com/download/spezifikation/eng_ConforMask_2500_(engl\
isch).pdf
<http://www.pcb-pool.com/download/spezifikation/eng_ConforMask_2500_(eng\
lisch).pdf>  Developement in sodic soap.   Very nice process, vacum
system not necesary for amateur application, just laminate, UV
insolation and develop.   For copy film, also from SHIPLEY,
"DIAZO-FILM", just copy transparent film from for lazer printed and copy
with UV contact  chassi. Developpement in amonia vapor soap the same
from architechture copy plant.   You have a orange transparency film,
you can place and see your pad to adjust position film and make UV
exposur; very strong film.   Patrick
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "iluvpcbs" <iluvpcbs@...> wrote:
>
> Steve,
>
> Could you try and make a solder paste stencil using your vinyl cutter
> sometime to see if my idea might have any merit?
>
> I agree that spraying coatings and stuff is a lot of work, but the UV
> setup has, well setup time too.
>
> My other idea was to use toner as a soldermask block and then remove
> that later with acetone, but I don't know if the under cutting on that
> would work.
>
> I have yet to hear from any of the direct-inkjet-print guys if they
> ever got a soldermask printed.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" alienrelics@ wrote:
> >
> > I used a Graphtec vinyl cutter and about the best I could do was
> > standard 0.1" spacing DIP ICs in a psuedo-SMT way. No holes, leads
> > trimmed flush and soldered onto the copper side.
> >
> > I also made some boards that I did drill, but without a guide hole
> > etched it was difficult to drill accurately.
> >
> > No way could I have had a lead pass between pins or done narrow
traces
> > with standard solder pads.
> >
> > But very possibly accurate enough to make a solder paste stencil.
> >
> > Scans in Files:
> >
>
<http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/Sign_Cutter_to_m\
ake_PCBs/>
> >
> > Steve Greenfield
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jerome Decock" <jerome@>
wrote:
> > >
> > > There is no way a vinyl cutter could cut such small pads, at least
> > the one I
> > > have (Roland CAMM, the same as in the first link) will not do
anything
> > > smaller than 4 mm(0.15") square without ripping the vinyl/copper.
Also
> > > corners tend to be rounded by the blade. I tried this method for
> > making self
> > > adhesive copper tracks with the same material used in link 1 and
same
> > > settings and it doesn't work for tracks thinner than 0.10/0.15".
> > > Additionally the self adhesive copper foil I used was very
expensive.
> > >
> >
>



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