Homebrew PCBs

Ok, so here it is.  I am a complete first timer, and have spent the past few
weeks amassing all the items from everyones tips, websites, and forums.  So
today was the first time I have ever created a PCB @ home, and i tried a
multitude of different ways, and have found ONE consistent way which works
99-100% of time.  In the 99% cases, its as simple as using a fine tip
SHARPIE PEN to fix.

I have tried the all expensice PRESS AND PEEL PAPER from PULSAR, PICTURE
PAPER, GLOSS PAPER, NEWSPAPER, MAGAZINE GLOSS PAPER, I have used both IRON
and HEAT ROLLER LAMINATOR.

The best results OVERALL are detailed as:

1. HP MONOCHROME LASER PRINTER - model 2015
2. 1/32 thick Epoxy Copper Clad double Sided Board (Digikey) 1 oz. thickness
3. MAGAZINE PAPER - US magazine, inside pages
4. IRON
5. ACETONE
6. PCB ETCHANT SOLUTION - RADIO SHACK (Though not real happy with this
product)

4 boards using the below links directions, with the above supplies have
given 3 perfect boards, 1 where a 1/16inch line had to be touched up with a
pen

I would alter the guys directions on this link below, to extend the ironing
time to about 2 minutes.  When ironing, i would hold the iron still for 15
seconds, then SLOWLY in a circle for 15 seconds, then back to sill for 15
and so on.  I did this for 1-2 minutes ON EACH SIDE (flipping it over after
finishing one side)

I have to say DO NOT WASTE ANY MONEY ON ALL THESE FANCY PAPERS, nothing but
a waste of $$, go buy a magazine, or if your wife read US MAGAZINE like mine
does, just grab it :)

Here is the link, and Im telling you, compared to the other 10 ways, of
paper, laminating, etc, the magazine paper took all the troubles out of it.

http://myweb.cableone.net/wheedal/pcb.htm

Shawn



On 10/29/07, Bob Macklin <rottenrobbie0@...> wrote:
>
>   What made it work for me was iorning with just the
> tip. I can get more pressue by applying it to the tip
> rather than the entire iron. I also use the full iron
> to heat the board several tie during the ironing
> process. I iron the paper for a full 5 minutes.
>
> Bob Macklin
> Seattle, Wa.
>
> --- juanabba <jjose@... <jjose%40globo.com>> wrote:
>
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "eballiri"
> > <eballiri@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've made several PCBs with TT and must say that
> > the last ones are
> > > getting really good. The most important tips I've
> > been following are
> > > this:
> > >
> > > DO's
> > > 1.- clean the copper well before transfering, I
> > use thin metal wool.
> > >
> > > 2.- try to use a SMALL Iron, like one used for
> > neckties or for
> > > travelling, since it'll be easier to handle and
> > will have a less
> > > bended heat-surface due to temperature.
> > >
> > > 3.- Put the paper on the PCB and put the iron
> > over it a few seconds
> > > to get a good working temperature
> > >
> > > 4.- Use the iron's EDGE (NOT it's surface) to
> > iron the whole thing,
> > > from time to time use the whole iron's surface to
> > heat the PCB a bit
> > > and continue to use the edge, this warrants that
> > every part of the
> > > drawing you are trying to transfer gets a correct
> > amount of pressure,
> > > and the correct amount of heat.
> > >
> >
> > Hi
> > I am not convinced I am getting you right on your
> > text above.
> > quote" Use the iron's EDGE (NOT it's surface) "
> > unquote
> >
> > do you mean to use the iron lateral or front sharp
> > edge.
> > On top of being a sharp edge, it is curved, so a
> > small portion of it
> > will make some pressure over the paper.
> > is that a correct understanding of your procedure???
> > thanks in advance
> >
> > juan abba
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new
> > Links, Files, and Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:Homebrew_PCBs-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com<Homebrew_PCBs-fullfeatured%40yahoogroups.com>
> >
> >
> >
>
> 
>


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