Homebrew PCBs

What made it work for me was iorning with just the
tip. I can get more pressue by applying it to the tip
rather than the entire iron. I also use the full iron
to heat the board several tie during the ironing
process. I iron the paper for a full 5 minutes.

Bob Macklin
Seattle, Wa.

--- juanabba <jjose@...> wrote:

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "eballiri"
> <eballiri@...> wrote:
> >
> > I've made several PCBs with TT and must say that
> the last ones are 
> > getting really good.  The most important tips I've
> been following are 
> > this:
> > 
> > DO's
> >   1.- clean the copper well before transfering, I
> use thin metal wool.
> >   
> >   2.- try to use a SMALL Iron, like one used for
> neckties or for 
> > travelling, since it'll be easier to handle and
> will have a less 
> > bended heat-surface due to temperature.
> > 
> >   3.- Put the paper on the PCB and put the iron
> over it a few seconds 
> > to get a good working temperature
> > 
> >   4.- Use the iron's EDGE (NOT it's surface) to
> iron the whole thing, 
> > from time to time use the whole iron's surface to
> heat the PCB a bit 
> > and continue to use the edge, this warrants that
> every part of the 
> > drawing you are trying to transfer gets a correct
> amount of pressure, 
> > and the correct amount of heat.
> > 
> 
> Hi
> I am not convinced I am getting you right on your
> text above.
> quote" Use the iron's EDGE (NOT it's surface) "
> unquote
> 
> do you  mean to use the iron lateral or front sharp
> edge.
> On top of being a sharp edge, it is curved, so a
> small portion of it
> will make some pressure over the paper.
> is that a correct understanding of your procedure???
> thanks in advance
> 
> juan abba
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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