Homebrew PCBs

I have the same printer & use the same paper (going to try the 
Hammermill office one business gloss as soon as I have time). You may 
have forgotten to say to PRE-HEAT your board for 3-5 minutes. I was 
having problems but think I getting it now.
Izzo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jcoffland" <homebrewPCB@...> 
wrote:
>
> I also bought a Brother printer from Staples.  HL-2040 for about 
$80.
>  I use Staples 'photo basic gloss' item# 471861.  I have been very
> successful with this method.  I am still using the toner cartridge
> that came with the printer.  There are a few VERY important steps to
> make this work consistently.
> 
> First, you need to clean all oils off your PCB board before doing 
the
> toner transfer.  The method I use which works very well is to first
> put on vinyl gloves then using Comet, stealwool and water to scrub 
the
> board thoroughly.  When all the oils are gone water will form a thin
> sheet over the board.  Any oil spots will show up as they repel the 
water.
> 
> Second, I find it helps to rough up the surface a bit with some 150
> grit sandpaper.  You must also rinse the board after sanding and you
> should still be wearing the rubber gloves.  Once the board is taped 
to
> the photo paper you can take off your gloves.
> 
> When it comes time to iron on the toner, push hard with the tip of 
the
> iron and go over the whole board with little circles until you can 
see
> the pattern show though the paper.
> 
> Also another tip.  I recommend doing a copper fill for the usual
> reasons, but also fill about a 1/4 inch around the board.  The toner
> on the edges of the board is most likely to peal away.  By adding 
this
> 1/4 inch barrier you will protect the outside traces.  The board can
> be cut down later if necessary.
> 
> When it comes time to soak the board I can usually pull off almost 
all
> the paper after about five minutes.  A thin layer of paper will
> remain.  I then use a piece of the wet paper I removed to rub 
against
> the board.  The wet paper is perfect for this as it is just the 
right
> hardness to remove the paper but not damage the toner traces.  You 
can
> scrub as hard as you want but be careful not to scratch the toner 
with
> your finger nails.
> 
> Finally, I dry off the board and check under good lighting that none
> of the paper's gum is still on the board especially in the small 
gaps.
>  As the board dries any residual gum will turn whitish.  If there is
> any more gum I go back to rubbing the wet paper over it and repeat 
the
> drying and checking process.
> 
> All that is left is the etching.
> 
> Joseph
>