Homebrew PCBs

You might do a search on my user name, as I have made several posts on
the Brother HL-2040 problems over the past year and a half.  It simply
would not work well with Press n Peel Blue.  Teknics tech department
said the new printers use higher temp toners.  The lable on the inside
of the printer discharge chute has a caution regarding the 431 F parts
inside.

What I've finally settled on is catalog paper, specifically non-glossy
pages from the mailed version of the Harbor Freight catalog.  It's
thin, so I tape it to a sheet of printer paper. I have some board
examples, beginning with the first try, in the Ted-KX4OM folder in the
Photos section.

I preheat the iron to 330 degrees and then iron for 2 minutes using
moderate pressure, with the temperature still increasing.  I use a
paper towel between the iron and the paper/PCB; it evens out the heat
and it minimizes the problems with steam holes in the iron.

The digital thermometer is one for cooking meat.  I has a sharp-tipped
probe on the end of a cable, and a digital readout in C or F.  It cost
$15 from Harry's Market here in Atlanta, a large fresh foods/gourmet
place.

Thanks go out to Buddy for the tip on the Office Depot toner.

Cheers,
Ted
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "izzo47" <izzo47@...> wrote:
>
> THANKS! I have a Brother HL-2040. I made 5 boards ok, then a run of bad 
> traces......Still trying to find the right paper.
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Buddy Brown" <buddybrown@> 
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I also have a Brother printer. It can be made to work,
> > But, it takes a little more pressure and a lot more
> > Ironing time, about 8 to 9 minutes. Also, the generic
> > Toner refills from Office Depot for the Brother printers
> > Works for TT much better with very much shorter
> > Ironing times.
> > I have also converted to an HP printer, but just wanted
> > To let those of you that still need to use the Brother
> > Printers, that they can be made to work.
> >
>