Homebrew PCBs

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "vsmvdd" <vsmvdd@...> wrote:
>
> > Well, you could explore that method, but it then would add a 
burden 
> to 
> > the delicate process.
> 
> why???  its just one more stage for a good board 
> and no cooking of the board or further fixing past a drying stage
> 
> so no need for heat  as the fumes will corrode the surface oils to 
> produce very hard carbon deposits
> 
> so it takes a stage away while introducing one
> 
> 
> > 
> > I feel curing the ink to the board may best lye in PREPARING the 
> board 
> > before you print.  Somehow coat the board with a chemical that 
will 
> let 
> > the ink adhere and seal, and still allow the etch to disolve the 
> copper.
> > 
> 
> im not so sure your right here
> 
> 
> > If only there was a good chemist around, I am sure that would be 
> real 
> > handy right now.
> >
> 
> ye  and im pretty sure he will agree with me 
> {i have a higher in chemisty and racked my brain before i posted }
> 
> finger oil is  much like any oil it forms 
> hard carbon when expose to these rancid fumes
> 
> but copper areas wont be affected atall
> 
> 
> well its worth a go 
> ive got a claria pigment based inkjet print drying
> {cd pcb i tried earlier reprinted}
> 
> so ill set up something to fume it in tomorrow {a plastic 
stowawaybox}
> and a little oil burner pad for burning oil
>