Homebrew_PCBs

> Well, you could explore that method, but it then would add a burden

to

> the delicate process.

why??? its just one more stage for a good board
and no cooking of the board or further fixing past a drying stage

so no need for heat as the fumes will corrode the surface oils to
produce very hard carbon deposits

so it takes a stage away while introducing one

>
> I feel curing the ink to the board may best lye in PREPARING the

board

> before you print. Somehow coat the board with a chemical that will

let

> the ink adhere and seal, and still allow the etch to disolve the

copper.

>

im not so sure your right here

> If only there was a good chemist around, I am sure that would be

real

> handy right now.
>

ye and im pretty sure he will agree with me
{i have a higher in chemisty and racked my brain before i posted }

finger oil is much like any oil it forms
hard carbon when expose to these rancid fumes

but copper areas wont be affected atall


well its worth a go
ive got a claria pigment based inkjet print drying
{cd pcb i tried earlier reprinted}

so ill set up something to fume it in tomorrow {a plastic stowawaybox}
and a little oil burner pad for burning oil