Homebrew PCBs

I use a 500 watt halogen "work light" from the hardware store, $10 
including an extra bulb stashed in the handle. I also use this chinese 
dry-film resist (ebay, $40 for way more than I can use before it dies) 
fed through a $25 laminator from walmart, using the procedures noted at 
thinktink.com. My contact frame is an old glass-faced photo contact 
printer, a couple bucks at a thrift store but generally available cheap 
on fleabay.

With the UV-filtering glass and guard assembly flopped out of the way I 
get a good exposure in about four minutes at ~18 inches. I also avoid 
eyeball exposure, I figure that UV filter is there for a reason.

I generally only do brass, not copper pcb, and I have a darkroom so I can 
go from a good dark inkjet print to litho film without too terrible much 
trouble. I *have* used an inkjet print as the mask (oil the paper with 
vegetable oil, let soak a while, then keep wiping until dry-ish), takes 
about twice the exposure and requires testing - produces slightly rough 
edges. I'm going to need to make a pcb or two soon, so I expect this 
experience will come in handy.

     -Gary

>  Can someone please recommend a UV lighting source which:
>  - is cheap
>  - has consistent UV output
>  - is readily available, or easily made up from items from general
>  hardware stores
>  - gives good results with low exposure time (preferably 5-10 mins,
>  I'm not keen on 30 minutes)