Homebrew PCBs

Hi Chris,

You are correct that Z depth is very important.  As is spindle run-out.

Some tips to try in the early stages.

#1) do only single sided as you are getting used to making boards.

#2) never try to run a trace between pads if at all possible.

#3) make all the traces as wide as possible. shoot for 50 mil.

There is a feature called rub-out. that will remove all the copper
around things.  it will take forever to do the whole board, but in
places like a set of dbl row header pins, it is nice to have only
pads, and not the little diamonds.

As you found out, depth of cut is vital.  I run the cutter along the
edge of a board and feed it down until it just touches the copper.  in
some cases, that will actually penetrate the copper.

A spring set cutter and a foot type stand-off will allow you to
eleminate the Z axis from the work, however, it probably will not work
with your tool changer.

http://www.2linc.com/engraving_depth_controlling_system.htm

expensive, but it might be possible to make your own.

as you get better making boards, running traces between pads can be
done. the feel for the depth stop is the key.  if you are getting good
depth control, your traces will be of uniform width and your between
pad, traces will be reliable.

The single sided is really just to eleminate the frustration of
getting the back of the board wrong and having to start all over again.

I really am envious of your tool changer.  great idea.

Dave