Homebrew PCBs

Hi,

Yes, Steve said that a thin PCB 20 mils can pass without 
modification and Steve is correct- that works fine. I will answer 
and comment about the method:

1. Thank you Steve for letting us know about the C84 and mispro ink. 
I followed your advice and while I had a hard time to follow it, it 
was a very good info.

2. I duplicated all Steves experiments and I can tell you that teh 
PCBs generated in that manner resemble near photo quality. The 
method is fast (I can have a PCB in 20 minutes etched) and it seems 
to be a bit better in quality than TT. Regrefully there are many 
variables and Zoran actually had a point in this case but than again 
I disagree with Zoran on photochemical being simple-- yes it is 
simple if you buy sensitized PCBs ($$) but if you make them.. I can 
write a dissertation if there is a demand)

3. What is wrong with printing on copper? The method is really cool. 
You stick a PCB and off you have the pattern that can be heated up 
and etched. Well, the printer C84 is $itty.I got one and learned on 
it. Freeing up the heads is not for everyone. In fact not knowing 
hte reader I can tell it is not for you... BS on the net about 
cleaning is just that-BS. Having that C84 I then decided to use it 
for learning about sheet metal. I reade and reread Steves directions 
about nibbling on it and the results was I finally took a 
reciprocating saw and cut above the slot.  Now what? You have to 
mount it so that it is true in three planes and true for CNC means 
different trueness than for making wood cabinets. Bottom line is: 
you won't be able to mount that cut off front rail so it holds its 
position today and tomorrow. No way. If you have so much metal 
talent I suggest sticking that head on a  cnc machine that Dave will 
have in January and now you've got something going!

4. So the good news is: you do not have to touch the sheet metal and 
can remove few plastic parts and start sliding PCBs of 20mils or 
thinner, right? Sort of. Like I said the printer is $itty. 

5. But there is a light in a tunnel. People like morons keep buying 
those poor quality printers C84 on ebay for big $$$s. They don't 
know that they can have a brand new printer C88+ from CompUSA for 
$80 and actually with some discounts for much less. Brand new. It is 
the same printer jus brand new. As a reminder C86 also is the same 
printer but also $itty quality.

5. So now you have a brand new C88+ and are ready to buy the inks. 
You bought the inks, you isntalled the chips with the gooball and 
are ready to print. Surprise! My c88+ printed crooked! I took it 
apart and what happened? The pad looked like a used cotex, but with 
black ink. I swear, those people at Epson sell rufubished printers! 
I saw ink all over inside, I saw plastic parts labelled 'resprayed'. 
Maybe collection of early engineering prototypes? Times are tough 
for everyone, I guess. I used that printer for experiments:  I warn 
you, stay away from cutting metal. I was printing all right, but 
getting anything resembling  a pattern was impossible.

5. Another C88+ another day. I printed mispro ink. Frankly, IMO 
misproinks might be a solution for some but the quality of colors is 
unacceptable. Those people at mispro are color blind that they don't 
see that they don't resemble epson colors. Stay away from mispro if 
you want to have quality colors.

6. But all we care is that secret ingredient in yellow in magenta, 
so who cares. I finally got C88+ printing, made the famous cut in 
side (thank you Steve, that helped, great job you did!) and was very 
happy. Heating it is no problem but takes some experimenting, no 
biggie. The PCBs are etch resistant, except for the very thin traces 
have tendency to underetch. Now: let'sention one thing: what I like 
in a PCB is not what you like in a PCB> I am talking about 
complelxity on the level of a PCB in desktop PC, ok? And that type 
is achieveable with ease with, I would say 99% accuracy. Almost 
photo quality.

7. So what seems to be the prblem? Well, few days later I revisited 
teh experiment and the print head was clogged- ina brand new 
printer. Cleaning, etc.. came out better but still for a brand new 
printer it is surprising that Epson engineers don't have it in grip.

I am disappointed with the drying out ink when printer is not in use 
and that pretty much disqualifies teh method unless you know youa re 
printing daily and I hope it is often enough.
I don't have that problem with a laminator.

It amazes me that I read discussions on Make of people excited about 
it, without understanding that even a brand new printer is not a 
solutionn for printing PCBs. Was fun to try it but it is not a good 
solution. It is probably the same problem liek with the plotter pens 
that always dried out except here you cannot run the cartriges dry- 
that mispro misfit is expensive. I feel sorry for peole who try to 
make a living pinting on inkjet printers large size prints- there's 
got to be a better way.

So who is going to present the next innovation?
Mike