Homebrew PCBs

wow, this sounds as a DIY drill is a complete nonsense...

 
--- JanRwl@... wrote:

>  
> In a message dated 12/7/2006 6:24:44 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
> rwskinner@... writes:
> 
> What  do you reckon a person could build there own PCB Drill for, if they had
> 
> to buy  all the components?
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the TIME to read through hundreds of "ad pages" in  magazines and
> 
> buy and try steppers and hardware offered, and have  patience to live-over 
> having wasted much money, and you are a VERY good hunter  of such goodies,
> you 
> might cobble something almost-useful for $1000.  But  if you want to have
> SOME 
> success within weeks of beginning, so buy KNOWN-USEFUL  steppers and good 
> drives like the Xylotex or Gecko drives, and can design a  decent buffer PCB
> with 
> at least a 74HCT541 and preferably a 74HCT02, etc., for  "motor-on/off
> latch," 
> etc., and want it to WORK well, you will need at least  Bishop-Wisecarver 
> rails and ball-bearing "V-wheels", and/or Thomson or equiv.  linear ball
> bearings 
> and hardened round-ways, and know HOW to mount all that  properly.  You will 
> also need some decent quill-motor like a Proxon, or, if  you are creative, a 
> 400 Hz. 3-ph. motor with 1/8" collet/nut on its shaft, VERY  precisely
> mounted 
> to that shaft, and a 400 Hz. inverter circuit to power  that.  But this 
> high-freq. approach DOES take some experience with  things-electronic, though
> the 
> result is FAR superior to a "brush motor" (aka  "universal motor").   Also,
> you 
> can get away with GOOD ACME screws and  PRELOADED Turcite (glass-filled 
> Teflon) nuts from one of the "precision screw  makers" like Ball Screws and 
> Actuators or a couple of others, names I cannot  recall as I have never
> actually used 
> other makes of screws.  
>  
> Plan on using excellent cabinetmaking expertise and Baltic  birch plywood for
> 
> the carcass, and preferably light-colored Formica for the top,  so 
> double-stick "poster tape" will work well thereon, without doing  damage.  It
> takes some 
> years of fiddling with such to be able to cobble  something that works OK, if
> 
> you are just beginning to brew your own such  machinery.  
>  
> After all that, if you do not waste and build efficiently, you  might do it 
> for less than $2000.  I am envisioning "about what I have in MY  PCB drill", 
> and what I'd do differently, were I to do an all-new one, and I am  CERTAINLY
> 
> not including all the "learning expenses" of 35 years of  home-brewing.  
>  
> Carbide PCB drill-bits INSIST upon slop-free movement, and  logic that 
> ENSURES the drill is UP and STEADY before moving to the next  X,Y begins, and
> STEADY 
> for  drilling.          Jan  Rowland
>


 
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