Homebrew PCBs

Epson Photo paper works great for me! Made my first board 3 weeks ago and
it turned out marvelous. Ran the Epson Photo paper through a Dell 1710
printer. Ironed it on using an old iron at its highest setting. Placed
about 30 seconds of body weight on it followed by some pressing and
rubbing to make sure all the edges received enough preassure, too. The
paper floated away on its own after just a few seconds in warm water.
Absolutely no toner residue on the paper, nor any toner floating in the
water. Rubbed the board with my thumb to remove some slimy residue. Used
Ammonium Persulfate for etching, what a drag. Took nearly 45 minutes to
etch a tiny board (1-1/4" x 2-1/4"). But even the fine print etched fine.
No pinholes anywhere.

In my past (20 years ago) I did a fair number of homebrew board using the
photo positive method. I drafted the layout (ink on transparent paper)
using regular drafting tools. Exposed presensitized boards using a UV lamp
and etched in a heated agitated tank. It worked great. Making boards every
other week back then supplies stayed fresh as they were replenished
frequently.

About 8 years ago I tried making a board again. Bought a presensitized
board from Active Electronics. Things didn't work out. I strongly suspect
the board was too old. I learned a long time ago that a presensitized
board stored at room temperature for a long time looses its photo
sensitive characteristics. Since making baords was a rare occurance I
dropped the photo positive method in favour of toner transfer. I produced
a board, nothing to brag about, lots of pin holes, etc. The board worked
but I wasn't impressed. Been using punched proyect board ever since.
Tedious work that results in a single board rather then a 'template' that
can be used over and over...

I came across this group and decided to give toner transfer another shot.
The Epson Paper worked great! I read about sponge etching. Picked up some
green film to strengthen the toner if it turns out to be necessary...

Adi