Homebrew PCBs

dhlocker:

Thanks for the comments.

I have noticed that the back side of the Office Max paper is just slightly
less glossy than the front side,  so, as you have experienced, either side
will probably work.  Next time I use  the Office Max  paper, I'll try 
the backside.

I think the active agent here is a polished clay coat, and the Office Max
paper might just be polished more on one side than the other, but both sides
are clay coated.

The paper experts among us can correct me if I'm wrong in this assumption.

I'm still stuck on the idea that the toner plays an important part in this
scheme, and that various toner compounds react differently with respect
to how well they bond to the paper.  A really strong bond might present
problems when removing the paper. Whereas a less strong bond will
allow easy paper removal. It seems that I did read somewhere about the
various compositions of laser toner compounds.

Like yourself, I have always used the litho negative/photoresist
technology, and am pleased as Punch not to have to go through
that rain dance anymore!  Not to mention getting rid of that
messy ferric chloride slime.

Most of my stuff is strictly hobby or prototyping, and the
laser jet toner technique is just fine for my applications.

Regards,

Roland F. Harriston
****************************************


dhlocker wrote:
>
> In my case, I know the only difference was the side of the paper on
> which I printed. I used the same printer with the same settings, same
> artwork. Printed on glossy side was a disaster; printed on
> less-glossy side was _so_ easy [one pinhole.] You might try it again,
> just to add another data point.
>
> Thanks for the followup,
> Donald.
>



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