From a former collegue who has wide experience from components and testing of the same, I got a warning on soldering ceramic SMD caps. Never poke the soldering iron on the cap as this will cause micro-cracks that later will let humidity into the cap and at a later instant (the most critical of course) the cap will go dead, explode or start to conduct like crazy. ----- Original Message ----- From: jr_dakota To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 1:17 AM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Surface-mount soldering Problem is once you get the hang of it you are just going to hate mounting SMT caps and resistors because you can do a 40-80 pin IC faster than a couple of SMT resistors or caps Don't discount the 'toater oven' method of reflow where you can mount and solder all your SMT devices in one shot .... One caveat though, I haven't tried it on an unmasked board so I can't say how it works in that situation JR --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Leon Heller" <leon.heller@...> wrote: > > I've just made a PCB which uses a Mega8 AVR in the LQFP package. I don't tin > my boards, and usually solder the leads of that sort of chip one at a time > after fluxing the pads with a flux pen. This time I thought I'd try > drag-soldering, although I wasn't sure how well it would work without any > solder mask. Instead of the flux pen I used Warton Future HF Rework Jelly on > each row of leads after tacking down two opposite corners of the chip. With > a Metcal hoof tip (larger than the mini-hoof I use for fine-pitch devices) I > drag-soldered each row, and only had one bridge. The Rework Jelly is more > active than the flux in the pen, and I got very neat joints - much better > than I can achieve by soldering the leads one at a time. > > Leon > -- > Leon Heller, G1HSM > Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle > leon.heller@... > http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Surface-mount soldering
2006-10-10 by \M