Homebrew PCBs

Why not simply go with using H2O2 (pharmacy grade ~3%) and HCl
(available from the HW store in gallon jugs for ~2.50/gallon)  Mixed
on the spot, and used sparingly, I've etched VERY successfully several
times now using a TTF method... <shrug>  Ferric Chloride is just a
pain to deal with... Hate the stuff... I've also got no other use for
FeCl... H2O2, I use fairly often... HCl/Muriatic Acid has uses around
the house as well... I can't think of a useful thing I can do with
FeCl, other than stain everything in sight... :-)  

Best!

-jw



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "fenrir_co" <fenrir@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@> 
> wrote:
> >
> > Ok,
> > 
> > 
> > So I googled and found this link:
> > http://www.qsl.net/iz7ath/web/02_brew/14_howto/02_clor/index.htm
> > 
> > This guy regenerates ferric chloride, but that contradicts this link 
> > from
> > the muriatic acid thread:
> > http://www.smallsolar.org/workshop/etchant/index.htm
> > 
> > - Copper Chloride has one important benefit that the other commonly 
> > used
> > etchant chemicals (Ferric Chloride and Ammonium Persulphate) don't 
> > have:
> > when it "wears out" it can be regenerated.
> > 
> > So, before I nuke my back yard, can I regenerate ferric chloride?  
> > And if
> > so, what would be a 'relatively' safe procedure?
> > 
> > Robert
> > :)
> >
> 
> I regenerated Ferric Chloride with just muriatic acid at first. The 
> result didn't etch as fast as new etchant, but worked. Eventually, 
> however, I found that beauty supply strength H2O2 (40 Volume = 12% 
> strength) would regenerate it far better. You can find it at Sally 
> Beauty Supply if you are in the US, you may have difficulty finding 
> anything over 20 volume elsewhere, try hairdresser and beauty supply 
> shops that have hair products. I use about 32 oz per 2 gallons of 
> etchant, so divide that up to find out how much to use. You should 
> still add a little acid to keep the pH low. Maybe about a half a cup 
> to a cup. I don't measure in much detail.
> 
> Using the H2O2 will produce a LOT of foam and some heat, so make sure 
> the etchant is in a sturdy container (I use a 5 gal bucket inside 
> another 5 gal bucket) and don't add it too fast or it will 'boil 
> over'. The resulting etchant works faster than fresh etchant from 
> Radio Shack.
>