Homebrew PCBs

> Derek wrote: 
> <snip>
> Assuming you're already using the
> highest toner density setting, you 
> could try the solvent fumigation
> trick or one of those sprays like 
> Laser Buddy. Most of us just switch
> to Inkjet to solve that problem.

Never heard of fumigation trick or laser
buddy - I will google them both now.

I have an endless supply of inkjets and
ink for them  (I have a friend that
imports and sells bottled ink systems
for epson and canon printers).  I
always liked the sharp edge of the
laser better.  Guess I can give an
inky a try though.

>> The big laserprinter I borrow works
>> well for large black areas - but it
>> is a half hour ride to get to use.
> 
> Which model printer is this?

Fuji Xerox one which I think uses the
technology they aquired with tektronics.

It's a big true 1200dpi colour laser that
I think costs as much as a small car.

It's 4 and a bit foot tall, 4 foot wide
and 3 foot deep.  Makes my little LJ4000
look like a pocket sized portable.

Does a very very nice job on vellum.
Incredibly black and no pin holes in
sight.

> <snip>
>> I am going to build a think and tinker style
>> collimated box - but I don't think it is
>> going to make a noticeable improvement.
> 
> Just add a collimation grid to an existing
> lightbox, waste of time though, it's not
> going to solve your opacity problem nor is
> it going to address any issues you may have
> in the .005" - .010" range IMO.

My current light box is a breifcase style
kinsten one.  The lamps are too close in the
breifcase style boxes and I get uneven
exposure.  SO I want to build a better one
anyways.  No harm in putting in the
collimating grid while I am building it I
think :D

Hopefully the laser plotter will solve the
opacity problem.  And I think all my sub 8
thou problems are photo tool related.