> I think the limit is underetching here, not the > printer. If i remember > right the 3.33mil line looked fine before the etch. Stefan - my "limit" currently is my procedure for removing the paper from the copper clad after doing the transfer. The method I use serviced me well till now (when I started to do < 10mil), as currently all thin traces (<10mil) just feel bad about themselves and say bye bye alongwith the soggy paper. So right now, I have to use a Sharpie to correct those tracks :( Hmmm... maybe I should learn the correct way to remove the paper... Currently, after doing the transfer I immerse the clad in cold water and then lukewarm water for 5 mins (till the paper becomes soggy) Then I gently ruboff the paper in running water, and right now all thin traces (and some parts of ground plane) are saying bye bye .... What method do you use ? Will soaking it overnight work ? I heard that soaking it overnight may even lead to the paper falling off by itself ? The funny thing is, the toner which sticks to the clad takes hell lot of effort to scrub off (I have since resorted to using acetone - Thanks mycroft!) But the 10mil traces and random parts of ground plane seem to be not so stubborn :( __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Message
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] How to calculate effective mil values from printer dpi
2006-06-23 by Kamal Shankar
Attachments
- No local attachments were found for this message.