Homebrew PCBs

Thanks Dwayne -  I look forward to pictures; I have the damndest time
converting word descriptions into mental pictures,and I'm tired tonight.

Stainless and nylon do not stand up well to CuCl etchant, I am told.
But I have some 1/4" PVC rod and can tap holes in sheet PVC and thread
the rod if need be. It's also easy to solvent-weld PVC pieces together.
So I think I could use all PVC to make it, once I understand your
design clearly.

Grant

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Dwayne Reid <dwayner@p...> wrote:
> At 07:12 PM 4/6/03 +0000, grantfair2001 wrote:
> 
> >I am curious how others hold their PCB in the etchant. I have some
> >1/4" PVC sheet I can use to make some kind of holder but no "aha"
> >experiences have come to mind yet.
> 
> I'll see if I can verbally describe what I use.  I'll also see about 
> posting pictures in that folder on YahooGroups (later).
> 
> 3 raw materials used for my PCB holders: 3/16" stainless steel rod 
> (available from welding and metal supplier outlets), 1/2" thick 
> polyethylene (I cut up one of those cheap plastic cutting boards from a 
> Dollar store), nylon 10-32 bolts.
> 
> 1) Slice the cutting board into 3/4" wide strips.
> 
> 2) Separate the strips into 2 groups: end pieces and sliders.  At this 
> point, the pieces look the same - there is no difference between them.
> 
> 3) Drill 2- 7/32" holes into the strips marked as sliders: about
3/8" from 
> each end.  The holes go through the 3/4" dimension.  The holes all
have to 
> line up: if you were to slide the stainless steel rod through the
holes, 
> the resulting panel would look almost how it looked before you
sliced it up.
> 
> 4) Drill a 9/64" into the end of each slider to that it meets the hole 
> drilled through.  Thread those holes with a 10-32 tap.  If you slide
the 
> stainless steel rod through the hole, you would be able to use a
10-32 bolt 
> to lock the rod in place.
> 
> 5) Drill 2- 11/64" holes into the strips marked as end pieces.  They
must 
> be in the same location as the holes in the sliders (about 3/8" from
each 
> end).  These holes are smaller than the diameter of the stainless
rod and 
> are intended to be press-fit (hammered) onto the rods.
> 
> 6) Use a router and V-bit to cut a V-groove into both long sides of
each 
> slider and into 1 side only of each end piece.  You are grooving the
narrow 
> (1/2") dimension.
> 
> 7) Cut the stainless steel rod into the length you want.  You need 2
pieces 
> for each holder.  Use a grinder or file to round each end to that
you can 
> easily pound the end pieces onto the rods.
> 
> 8) Assemble the frames!  Pound the stainless steel rods into one of
the end 
> pieces, slip 2 sliders onto the rods, then pound another end piece
onto the 
> ends of the rods.  Thread nylon 10-32 screws into the locking holes
on the 
> sliders.  Done!
> 
> dwayne
> 
> -- 
> Dwayne Reid   <dwayner@p...>
> Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd    Edmonton, AB, CANADA
> (780) 489-3199 voice          (780) 487-6397 fax
> 
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