Homebrew PCBs

I do now have the ink. But not yet the printer.
I tried painting by hand and it looks the yellow makes a much better  
looking coat than the black (the black looks grainy and with copper  
shining through and the yellow nice and smooth). Also it seemed to me  
yellow dried much quicker.

I did not yet etch because my PCB holder broke (epoxy glue let go) the  
last time i made a PCB and i forgot to fix it. Will finish repairing it  
tomorrow, and maybe also get the printer. If not i will do some etching  
tests with hand painted ink and different ratios of black/yellow. But  
yellow seems visible enough so that it would not need any coloring at all  
if it is bad in any way.

One thing that stood out is that this paint did coat the copper very well  
indeed. No beading up or pulling together at all, and i only did my usual  
prep (brief sand with 1000grit and wipe with alcohol).

I will produce more results and hopefully some pictures tomorrow.

ST


On Thu, 04 May 2006 23:44:41 +0200, mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...>  
wrote:

> Just to have one post today on the subject. Are there any new
>
> results?
>
>
> I did come across this during a discussion on another group:
>
>
> Sodium Persulfate is a good replacement for Ammonium Persulfate for
>
> its compatibility with etch resist pens. Sodium Persulfate will not
>
> remove etch resist ink and like Ammonium Persulfate crystals, are
>
> used as an alternative to the traditional ferric chloride to produce
>
> a cleaner copper etchant solution.
>
>
> Here's the link:
>
>
>
> http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/4101.html
>
>
>
> Something to be considered down the line. I did notice how fragile
>
> the Durabrite ink ws in both FeCL and HCl/H2O2 etches. I did not try
>
> Ammonium Persulfate.
>
>
> Myc