Homebrew PCBs

On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 08:00:32 +0200, LogicResearch  
<logicresearch@...> wrote:

> The reason I am back here again is that I have found (whilst looking for
>
> Riston PCB's) Press 'n' Peel film.
>
> Simply (as they say) copy or print the artwork onto this film with a  
> laser
>
> printer, Iron onto the blank PCB, peel off the film, and etch - simple.
>
>
> Has anyone used this before and is it as good as they say?

I don't use press and peel, i use inkjet paper which has a special coating  
that easily releases the toner.
Many use this method here with great results, it's called toner transfer.

I find it much less work and much faster than when i had to mess around  
with film printing, exposure, developing, and photoresist. I wanted to use  
old board stock back then, which i know now just doesn't work well, and it  
is totally against my nature to throw something away only because it is  
old and buy new stuff, so i never liked it. Coating boards myself with  
spray-on resist or film didn't seem practical either.

Toner transfer is a lot cheaper overall and the results are just as good  
(well, a lot better actually if you compare to the desasterous  
photoprocess i used...).

Look in the links section and in the archives if you want to learn more.  
It seems to me most people who use it long term with good results don't  
use press and peel but instead various other papers. I'm not sure if it is  
just because it is cheaper or maybe press and peel might not be that good  
after all, i dunno.

> Also I see another chemical, Ammonium Persulphate, that I have never  
> used -
>
> anyone use this and does it have any advantages over Ferric Chloride?


I think it doesn't stain so badly.
You might want to look at CuCl etchant if you want something new. Also  
see-through in thin enough tanks and you can regenerate it time and time  
again which is probably most often why it is used...

ST