Homebrew PCBs

On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 05:34:06 +0100, soffee83 <soffee83@...> wrote:

>
>
> Stefan (if you're here)- Are you talking about the "etching" of both
>
> sides at once, or the transfer (where I have the trouble)? If the
>
> latter, doesn't all the new heat and pressure,etc. jeopardize the
>
> fragile paper/toner and all, already on the back?
>

I mean both, both at once.

I put both sides of artwork against the PCB, and inside a folded piece of  
thin cardboard.
Then i feed this through the fuser.
Just to be sure i feed it through again, minus the cardboard, other side  
up.

Does both sides nicely.

Fusing again is not destructive, as long as you leave the paper on.

>
>
> I used a thick, red rubber roller from a Xerox or something, I
>
> destroyed at work long ago, to make a drum finishing machine. That
>
> thing and an electric typewriter I dissected have brought me two nice
>
> rollers, molded onto solid metal spindles. I'm wondering if just a
>
> basic iron (or heating element), with a smooth flat aluminum base,
>
> mounted upside-down in a stand, could be used with one of them, in a
>
> height adjustable attachment, maybe with a knob or crank locked onto
>
> one side of the roller's spindle? Main differences, I guess, would be
>
> the temperature, and the feed rate (which shouldn't be hard to
>
> control). I can't see the temperature of a cheaper laminator being all
>
> that consistent anyway, plus we'd be dealing with as much torque as we
>
> needed (hand/arm powered), and the roller/pressure system could be
>
> much higher without straining any "man-made" motors. Also, the iron
>
> base area is probably closer to most board widths, than a device made
>
> for a sheet of paper.


Appears to me as if a fuser is much easier to force into service for our  
puropses.

ST