Homebrew PCBs

Hello Dennis,

Well, I tried many a' times...but I seem to not get all of the toner
off of the transparency. I went 10 seconds, then 30 seconds, then 1
minutes, then 2 minutes, then 5 minutes, and even 10 minutes. But the
toner seems to break away in parts from the transparency. 

I am using laser color transparencies...not black and white. Also it's
not inkject transparency. 

Could that be the culprit?

Patrick




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dl5012" <dl5012@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Patrick,
> 
> I use Eagle Lite.  That version will do small double sided boards 
> free.  Download from http://www.eaglesoft.de/freeware
> 
> Prep your boards the normal way
> 
> Put board on a block of wood covered with a doubled paper towel
> 
> Set iron to cotton/wool setting with no steam (you need to 
> experiment with correct temp.
> 
> Place board on board, align artwork (trimmed to slightly larger than 
> board), cover with another doubled paper towel (be careful not to 
> let transparency slip)
> 
> Apply iron for 20-30 seconds.  Gently lift from one corner making 
> sure to hold down transparency while lifting paper towel.  
> Transparency will usually stick but will stop after transparency 
> gets it's fill of paper fibers.
> 
> Iron and check progress every 30 seconds or so to see when toner is 
> melting.  You need to get it all melted, but not so much that it 
> smears badly.  Watch for traces that are starting to spread and 
> don't let pad holes close completely.
> 
> When you think things are melted well enough, remove the board from 
> the block of wood and set it aside to cool.
> 
> Start your next transfer if you have more.
> 
> When the first board has cooled to the touch, but is still warm, 
> peel the trasparency from the board; starting at one corner.  If 
> little or no toner stays on the transparency, you're done.
> 
> If a lot of toner stays on the transparency, stop peeling as soon as 
> you notice that.  Iron more and try again.
> 
> Once the transparency has been removed, you may notice some residue 
> from the transparency.  Clean this off with soap, water, and a 
> toothbrush.  You don't need to do this under running water.  Wet the 
> board, apply some soap (I use liquid hand soap), scrub the board 
> thoroughly (shouldn't have any problems with toner being removed), 
> rinse board, blot dry and store in plastic bag until ready to etch.
> 
> That's it.
> 
> I cut and paste my design and array (panelize) it so it fills as 
> much of the transparency as possible.  I leave enough empty space 
> for a 1" boarder around the perimeter and 0.3 inches or so between 
> patterns.  Keep your fingers off the toner side and store them where 
> they won't collect dust.
> 
> Make sure there's no dust on the board or transparency when you 
> start transfering.
> 
> Regards,
> Dennis
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "braincambre500" 
> <braincambre500@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Sir Dennis,
> > 
> > Yes, I just got back from Office Depot and have in hand...
> > 
> >             an HP Laserjet 1020 printer
> > 
> >                          +
> > 
> >              50 pack of laserjet transparencies
> > 
> > I am looking forward for tonight, as I will try my hand and
> > iron...making my first toner transfer.
> > 
> > Do give me some points, if you would, as I am presently making my 
> PCB
> > design in my "Paint' Program in Windows 98. Is there a better 
> program
> > to use?
> > 
> > I always look forward to your great advice, as you have walked down
> > the road, that I am about to embark!
> > 
> > ...your friend, Patrick
> >
>