Homebrew PCBs

I have also recently been playing with this technique. I can report
great results with 3 papers - 

Pulsar TTS paper
Staples Picture Paper
Label backing paper  

I use a laminator with adjustable temperature set on high, bought on
EBay. It is essential to me for this sort of work. I can highly
recommend both the IBICO PL-330 (4 roller, a real workhorse) and EL-12
II(two roller, but also very good). Both have spring loaded rollers.
variable temp, and work with .062 boards no problem. These cost $43.
and $26. respectively. My wife uses the smaller one to laminate
posters at work.    
 
I have also tried the Pulsar TRF Green film, and recommend it highly.
It is used after the toner is layed down on the copper to seal the
toner, and does a great job to prevent pitting of large ground planes.
It alone is cheap at 6.95 for 15 feet. I bought it from Digi-key. It
works with both the Pulsar paper, and the label backing paper. 
It can also be used to seal the top component layout, if you do that
too. They sell a white color specially for that, but I just use green.
 
The Pulsar green film does NOT work however, with the Staples Picture
paper, or any other clay based paper. It simply does not stick to
anything but raw toner, which is what you get when the label paper or
Pulsar paper is removed. I know the Pulsar paper is expensive ($15./10
sheets), but I cut each sheet into 6 pieces, and attach to a carrier
paper with leftover laserjet compatible labels. So it goes a long way.
The best part is it removes without any headaches in about 10 seconds,
no additional scrubbing. I place it in a tray of cold water and it
lifts right off. The label paper is similar, but occasionally has
problems, so I tend to use it for the top component layouts to
economize, where it is less critical. 

This whole process works great for me. I found the best price for new
boards is circuit specialists, and buy the 1 oz. .062 8x10" boards for
$7.50each. 

Bob

 
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> Well, you could always use a better laminator or a fuser to reduce the  
> effort.
> 
> If it doesn't adhere there are only two possible reasons:
> 
> A) low temperature or no pressure
> 
> B) contamination or insufficient board preparation.
> 
> If it seems to adhere well, but toner comes off when gently removing
the  
> paper you have a paper problem.
> Sometimes it might be difficult to distinguish the two.
> 
> ST