Homebrew PCBs

Hello my friend,

Yes, thank you for replying back so soon. 

As far as you using inkjet transparancies in making
your PCBs...are you saying that you DO NOT use
pre-sensitive PCBs for this particular process...or
are using saying that use USE pre-sensitive PCBs in
putting your inkjet transparancies on the board?

Since I am a rookie in this form of transfer, my
questions are needed.

Patrick


--- dl5012 <dl5012@...> wrote:

> Hi Patrick,
> 
> I've tried a couple different laser printers and
> haven't noticed any 
> difference in the transfers.  I'm using a Lexmark
> Optra E+ that I 
> picked up for $40 and am running with a toner
> refill.  Pictures of a 
> board I did this afternoon can be found here - 
>
<http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/photos/view/9984?b=1>
> 
> I tried using the paper transfer method and had poor
> results.  After 
> experimenting with many types of paper, I started
> trying 
> transparencies.  I've settled on inket
> transparencies.  One 
> advantage with transparencies is it's easier to see
> if the toner is 
> melting and easier to do double sided boards because
> you can see the 
> artwork and can align better.
> 
> The above link is a collage showing (clockwise from
> top left): 1) 
> oner transfered to board - it's only 1.4" x 1.6",
> but I've done 
> boards around 4 X 6 with the same results, 2)
> artwork on 
> transparency, 3) transparency after toner transfer
> (no significant 
> amount of toner left behind), and 4) the
> etched/drilled board.
> 
> All traces are 16 mils.  The border around the board
> is 10 mils.  I 
> don't do anything smaller because I try to make my
> boards as easy to 
> transfer and etch as possible.  I fill all of the
> open area to 
> reduce etch time and save my etching solution.  I
> remove the toner 
> only from areas where I solder, leaving the rest as
> a poor man's 
> solder mask.
> 
> Before etching, I go over the fills with a fine tip
> black Sharpie 
> (ultrafine and industrial don't work for me). 
> Etching in ferric 
> chloride gives the Sharpie ink a glossy finish.
> 
> I use a clothes iron to transfer and I heat the
> toner to the point 
> that it's starting to melt.  I like to make my holes
> small and like 
> the toner to start closing them so the holes serve
> as pilot holes 
> during drilling.  I use a dremel type drill in a
> stand with carbide 
> bits.  Before I had the stand, I used a hand held
> dremel tool and 
> had no problems with breaking bits or getting the
> holes lined up.  
> But it was a pain to keep the drill vertical.
> 
> I have had poor results using laser copies.
> 
> Regards,
> Dennis
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Cambre
> 
> <braincambre500@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Sir Leon,
> > 
> > In the future I will be buying a laser printer and
> > start making my PCB's using the tone transfer
> method.
> > Is this is what you are also using?
> > 
> > a friend,
> > 
> > Patrick
> 
> 
> 
> 


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