ghidera2000 wrote:
or it'll be slow. Make sure it's less than 30deg or it'll peel.
25deg is ideal.
larger black areas? Do some exposure test strips in 30s increments
starting from 1min. Consider getting a decent inkjet.
> Just attempted my first photofabrication and it failed at theThe problem is you used *hot* water. Make sure it's warmer than 20deg
> developing stage. Within 30 seconds of immersion the board was
> completely devoid of resist...
>
> Here's what I did (all M.G. Chemicals supplies)
>
> -Printed out my circuit onto a transparency (IBM Laser
> Transparencies, 24L5041) using a Samsung ML-1210 laser printer.
> -Poured two litres of hot tap water into a tray.
> -Poured 200ml of Developer into the tray of water (10:1 as per
> instructions).
or it'll be slow. Make sure it's less than 30deg or it'll peel.
25deg is ideal.
> -Set up the UV light using the supplied stands (about 5-6" high).Laser printouts can be pretty crappy. Can you see light thru the
> -Placed the sensitized board blue side up. Positioned my
> transparency (ink side toward the board) and placed the plexi weight
> on top.
> - Waited 5 minutes then turned out the light (actually probably more
> like 5.5 minutes).
larger black areas? Do some exposure test strips in 30s increments
starting from 1min. Consider getting a decent inkjet.
> - Immediately put the board into the developer solution. I used the
> supplies foam brush to agitate the water (didn't come within 1/2" of
> the board itself, just slowly waved it back and forth at the
> surface). Solution was about 95-100F by this time.
> - About 5 seconds in I could see my traces through the clouds of
> black ink. As the black ink cleared I could see traces starting to
> fade out too. This is about 15 seconds into the process. I realized
> the board was already toast so I waited to see how long it would
> take to completely erase the resist - was about 30 seconds.
>
> The instructions say it should take about 2 minutes to develop the
> board. This was a LOT faster... I'm thinking perhaps the developer
> was too strong? What about temperature? Should I just use developer
> at room temperature instead - give myself more "OOOOP" time?
>
> I guess its also possible that this laser's toner isn't UV opaque
> but, the speed at which the board completely blanked and the fact
> that I saw traces - even for a short time, makes me think its a
> developer problem.