Homebrew PCBs

How about using a "T" shirt press? you know the items used to apply 
decorative heat transfers to t shirts.
Bill Higdon
Adam Seychell wrote:
> Hi Tom
> 
> twb8899 wrote:
> 
>>Bob,
>>
>>Most of my boards are rather simple and single sided. I use dry film 
>>photo resist on FR-4 (glass epoxy) and CEM-1 (paper base)laminates. 
> 
> 
> 
> I am wondering how you apply the dry film. I have a lot (30 meters x 16" roll) of dry film 
> at home for making PCB's. Its excellent to use once it has been applied to the board. I 
> made a rubber roller to apply the film on the board while cold. I then heat it in oven at 
> 80\ufffdC for 10 minutes to get it sticking on really well. It's difficult to avoid wrinkles 
> and air bubbles without a proper laminator. I find applying the film the most difficult.
> 
> I once had a chance to buy a proper dry film laminator for fairly cheap at an auction, but 
> the machine stood 2 meters tall and weighed couple hundred kilograms. This machine is ok 
> if your laminating hundreds of panels in a single day, but for the hobbyist with limited 
> sotrage space and money there has to be a better way.
> 
> 
> 
>>I make my films using a machine called a photoplotter. This machine 
>>takes the data from a CAD system and "draws" the image on 
>>photographic film for a perfect image in a positive or negative 
>>format. These films are known as a "phototool" in the industry. 
> 
> 
> How does this photoplotter work ? I've heard that some use a red laser and scan across a 
> rotating drum with the film wrapped around. I priced photoplotter film and its very 
> expensive. I've remember you once mentioned that there is a lot of used PCB equipment on 
> the market, are there any fairly cheap photoplotters around ? Are these machines too big 
> for a home lab ?
> 
> 
>>I have never used the laser or ink jet methods but know others that 
>>have had excellent results with these methods. I believe they use 
>>some type of translucent paper for printing which will allow UV light 
>>to pass through. 
> 
> 
> 
>>I still have a process camera but prefer the photoplotter because the 
>>film is always perfect. If you look at a photoplotted film with a 
>>microscope you will notice that it has excellent film density. There 
>>are no gray areas. The film density goes from opaque black to clear 
>>and back to black. It's difficult to get even the best cameras to 
>>make films like this. 
> 
> 
> I've looked at inkjet printers transparencies under a microscope and the line edges are 
> very jagged. This is individual ink droplets scattered around the edges. There are no gray 
> areas however. After I expose and develop the dry film and then look under a microscope I 
> can clearly see the jagged edges reproduced from the inkjet prints. The film density of 
> black ink in inkjet printers is never any problem for UV exposure. The main thing to watch 
> out for is pin holes, but that depends entirly on what transparency and inkjet ink your 
> using. Epson brand stuff give the best prints I've seen.
> 
> Adam