Homebrew PCBs

Hey again Stefan and all,

I think I do have that same color and type of board as you in some 
single sided stuff I was using. I've got some cheap single sided now 
that's more weird looking, but seems to do quite well. It's a 
totally opaque light beige, sort of a flesh tone, with a fairly tight 
weave of whatever's in it.

I'm not sure if I'd try that iron rolling. I'd be afraid of trying to 
get enough heat up through the board bottom to melt what was on the 
paper a few layers away. I saw the acetone thing mentioned a few 
times, but it could have been all for "toner to metal" transfers. I 
also remember one thread with someone who couldn't get any acceptable 
results from it and decided it was "toner dependant".

     -George (who still hasn't gotten his no-stick Reynolds wrap)

Here's some snipped info from a forum I frequent--

Align the paper on the metal sheet, design side down, and secure the 
edges with tape. Make sure the paper is flat against the metal.
Now the nasty part: Transfering the design from the paper to the 
metal. This is done by releasing the fused toner on the paper with 
Acetone. <-some acetone warnings snipped-> Completely wet the paper 
with acetone (the paper will turn translucent.) by rubbing it with a 
saturated cotton ball. Apply good pressure, this will help the 
transfer process. Wait a few minutes, remove the tape and carefully 
peel back the paper. Most of the design should now stick to the metal 
surface. Handle it with care because it will smudge off if you aren't 
careful. The design lasts long enough for me to pierce (drill) and saw 
(or punch) out the bits I don't want.  If you do accidentally wipe off 
the design, just clean the metal with a cotton ball and some acetone 
(did I mention the gloves and the ventilation?) wipe it dry and try 
again. It's quick, cheap, works pretty well and there's no annoying 
paper and glue gumming up the drill bits.