Homebrew PCBs

It helps to have a elastic material pressing the paper into the valleys  
between traces.
I run it transfer side down through the fuser so the silicone rubber  
roller presses it in.
Still i can't get a continuous line, but it's only a tiny break where  
copper and blank board meets. I try to keep text to one surface, but  
outlines are OK.

ST

On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 01:31:46 +0100, soffee83 <soffee83@...> wrote:

> Sorry to spit out this "message flood", but I'm having more questions
> than answers lately. :(
>
> I tried my first PCB labeling the other night with my usual toner
> transfer method and it didn't go very well. I couldn't help but notice
> how the "raised" copper areas of a double-sided board prevent the
> paper from laying flat on the board and screw up the transfer in the
> low areas.
>
> Is the toner/iron process a lost cause under those circumstances, or
> does anyone know of a workaround? FWIW, I use my previous brand of
> JetPrint photo paper for non-trace jobs, where I need a clean black
> transfer with no left over paper. This is the type where the paper
> sort of slides off after soaking, leaving a light "goo" on the surface
> which comes off easily with soap. I found a method of getting much
> more consistent transfers onto metal, by spraying a light mist of
> Krylon clear acrylic on the substrate beforehand. Unfortunately, this
> didn't seem to help on the PCB labels.
>
>                               -Thanks Again!
> George
>